Barrel problems....

Apr 08, 2005 5 Replies

Well, I filled up the barrel with wine... However, I am a bit concerned...Yesterday when I got home from work the barrel wasn't leaking any more...It was a little damp around the head but no leaks... So I emptied the water and filled it up with wine... Everything looked good until this morning...The barrel isn't leaking, but it looks like there is some wine seeping through the head at one location and the barrel looks damp on those staves right to the second band. Besides this spot the barrel looks dry...My concern is MOLD! Do you think it will stop seeping? I spray wet spot with a little 10% SO2, good or bad idea?



Thanks,



Shawn



Good idea. You want to wait until there in no dampness next time, it should be dry on the outside before putting wine in it.

You can use barrel wax to plug it up, but I would wait for someone like Tom to respond before doing that. Is that hoop loose? Tightening hoops on a full barrel of wine may not be a good idea, I never tried it.

Joe

Good idea. That'll keep mold at bay. The barrel will probably continue to swell and seal itself up (assuming the hoops were tight to start with). If not, you may have a leaking sieve tube. Blot the area dry with a paper towel and see if you can tell _exactly_ where the leak is. If it's coming from the end of a stave you'll need to plug it. If it's coming from between the head boards it's likely that the hoops weren't tight enough to begin with - but that may resolve itself.

It's possible that it'll be OK by tomorrow. Or not. If worst comes you could empty the barrel, tighten the hoops (using a drift punch and a small sledge) and check it with water again. That's not that bad with a 5 gallon barrel, but a PIA if it's a 60 - especially if it's in the middle of a stack!

Tom S

Thanks... One question...If I find the leak what do I fill it with?

Shawn

Barrel wax is used up here. It's pliable with your fingers so it melts at pretty low temperatures.

Joe

If it's a sieve tube leaking out the end of a stave, you jam an icepick into it and then hammer a tank spile into the hole. Tank spiles are just little pointy pieces of wood. I've used a wooden toothpick on occasion. Cut off ~½" with a pair of dikes and hammer it into the leak, point first. A little Wilhold carpenter's glue in the hole before driving the spile is a good idea. Repeat as necessary. BTW, this trick is also good for fixing borer (earwig) holes.

Tom S

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