Press Varnish/Coating

To resurrect an old thread of mine, my press basket is near done and I'm considering the coating. We discussed varnish vs "salad bowl" finishes with some sort of consensus on food grade grade finishes although I also get the feeling that a well dried spar varnish would be OK as well.

Here are the new questions for the group:

- the salad bowl varnishes are an oil or mix of oils clearly marked food grade that is suppose to dry on, a salad in a bowl is vastly different to grape juice - does anyone have an opinion on whether it might impart a flavour to the finished wine?

- my thinking here is that if the oil is a bad decision then I can always varnish for next year, I think the varnish will go over just about any finish, thoughts on this one?

Don

Reply to
Don S
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I will be attaching my fresh cut oak to my press basket shortly.

I don't plan on treating it at all.

2-3 times a year it might be used, then stored in the garage.

Doesn't seem to me that much could happen to it.

Why take a chance with contamination. Why take a chance "sealing" in the water behind the varnish. Wood finishes don't offer 100% sealing.

Reply to
Pete

Pete, I agree wholeheartedly. Many years ago I put together a press basket in a hurry, and in a pinch I used untreated pine slats. Zero problems, and the press & basket are still going strong for a buddy. If you wash the wood & dry it after using, and store it in a dry location, any close-pored wood will last indefinitely. I've always marvelled at the old unpainted, untreated wood on barns etc. which lasts for decades if allowed to air out. However, I strongly recommend a good scrubbing of all equipment before ( & after) using.

Mike MTM, Cokesbury, New Jersey, USA

Reply to
MikeMTM

The fact is that a well air-dried piece of wood, sealed with varnish, is about as good as you can do. If the wood is properly dried, there won't be moisture trapped under the varnish. Once the varnish is thoroughly dried it is effectively impervious to ~14% alcohol solution - at least for the time wine will be in contact with it.

A varnished press is also a heck of a lot easier to clean than one that is unfinished.

Tom S

Reply to
Tom S

In fact it wouldn't be alcohol but grape juice, alcohol may be a great solution to dissolve impurities from the varnish in but the grape juice is only slight acidic.

I'm looking now at my dining room table and it has a clear hard finish on it - what would that be? And it would be food grade right?

Don

Reply to
Don S

I guess if you can assmume there are no open pores in your varnish "seal". The porous ends of the slats and any bolt connections could compromise the seal. Then... you would be sealing in fluid.

Reply to
Pete

I don't know about your table, but mine has a marble top coated with polyurethane. Urethanes are pretty commonly used to finish wood surfaces these days. As for whether it's food grade, I don't worry about that.

Tom S

Reply to
Tom S

Probably not considered food grade. Probably a poly type finsh.. depends on the age.

Would you see this same finish on a salad bowl? Something that comes in extended contact with food?

Reply to
Pete

Not to complicate matters but this issue as been raised before. If you were to purchase a new press the recommended type of coating would be food grade paint, as this form would not contaminate the fruit. Some have indicated that clear or brown tint varnish would be suitable but as this is oil base this is not recommended, as the varnish gives of surface contamination when in contact with what is been placed on it.

Stephen SG

Reply to
Stephen SG

Reply to
Bonaquisti

What are you planning to use for the press? A piece of 3/4"-16 or

1"-12 all-thread, or an acme threaded lead screw and bolt, or a hydraulic jack? Where does one even buy an acme nut?

I'd like to build an apple crusher and a cider press. I have quite a few board feet of ash and maple lumber that ought to be good for making the basket, and douglas fir 2x4 should be good enough for the frame if I reinforce with a little steel at strategic points. (can you tell that I don't have any measured drawings and plans?)

BTW, if you use oak to make the basket, make sure it is white oak and not red oak -- white oak is closed grained and red oak has open grain.

Best regards, Bob

Reply to
zxcvbob

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