to confirm a couple basics

Looks good to me, except under #2, rack to carboy - I do top up if I don't have enough to fill the container to a proper level. Hopefully, you've made enough so that after the primary ferment you have enough + a bit more for topping up. You always need to be topped up. Also, you may want to add Stabilize to #5 (stabilize, clarify, bottle, age). I'd be interested to see what others say. Darlene

I'd recommend racking into a carboy a little earlier

Doing that would scare me! You might not want to top up immediately, to make sure the must won't foam over, but once fermentation has slowed down, top up.

If by "stabilize" you mean adding potassium sorbate, I'd skip that.

I've been makikng wine since the 1960s, and have never owned, much less used, sorbate.

Opinions differ on racking. I believe in minimal handling. I rack once, at most, before bottling.

vince norris

Joe,

When the fermentation slows down (which it will have by the time it reaches 1.000), it no longer produces sufficient CO2 to safely remain in a primary, with the relatively large amount of exposed surface area, and large volume of head-space (compared to a narrow-mouth secondary). Thus one must press (if fermenting on the skins) and "rack" to a secondary at this stage, or use other methods to protect the must from exposure to air.

However, most of the yeast will be in the lees at the bottom of the primary, and the yeast colony will not grow in the absence of oxygen, so "racking" off the lees can stick your fermentation.

One solution to this dilemma is to do the entire ferment in a "secondary", and when it slows down, top it up.

Another solution is to transfer from primary to secondary (by pouring or siphoning), and transfer the lees as well.

Although pressing, even with a press bag, filters out the skins, stems, seeds, and gross lees, it does not filter out the yeast, and thus this "racking" does not halt the ferment.

Also, it is important that you do NOT add sulfite while fermenation is still occuring, as this does absolutely no good, and my cause many problems. AFTER fermentation has completed, sulfite levels should be checked and topped-up each time you rack.

Maybe we should have asked you what you're making; wine from grapes, fruit & vegea wine, or wine from store juice or frozen concentrates? And what type of wine you want to make a dry or sweet wine? While I don't make wine from grapes, I do enjoy reading the posts about it - but I have noticed some subtle differences in how you make the wine from other fruit wines. Darlene

Joe,

I don't have a recommendation at all. I'm reaching out to see if I'm on the right track. An experienced winemaker instructed me to not worry about ullage in the secondary in that first racking off the gross lees. There is fermentation in the secondary which protects the wine, even if it's not visible to the naked eye. Hmmm. It's a procedure that does make me a little nervous, yet his wines always work out marvelously.

Wouldn't you want to clarify after the racking following the secondary fermentation, and then bulk age it for a few months?

Response in the text. Much the same as others with a few twists.

You do not need to top up if it is still fermenting sufficiently. I like to rack a bit earlier regardless of the recipe. Around 1.010 or 1.020. That way the ferment is active enough that I know plenty of CO2 will be produced to fill the head space and protect the wine. Also, the more active the ferment is when you rack, the more yeast is suspended.

During this phase you do not need to top up if the ferment was strong enough as mentioned above. BUT you need to keep your hand off the wine. If you open the carboy every day for testing air is getting in. If you leave it alone, no air and no problem. You do not need to test anything at this time. The only test needed is "is the airlock bubbling". If it quits the next day you might have a problem. If it goes several days, no problem so keep out of it. Wait untill the bubbles stop and then wait for another week or two. The sediment will not hurt anything in that time. Then open and check it. If it is dry (SG < .995) then rack it to bulk age and top up. If it is not dry then it is stuck and you may need to do something else but you will have to keep it topped up from here on out.

Other than kits, I never chemically stabalize until the wine is 6 months old and clear. You could cold stabalize.

Unless there is significant sedemnent I do not rack that much. 3 mo's if there is significant sedement. After 6 mo. if not.

Most of this is just my way of doing it. But that is what you asked for. ;o) It fits my style. Others will have other ways and if their wine is good their method works just as well.

Ray

I've never noticed a stuck fermentation... my wines always end up tasting dry, but I think I have racked from the primary to the carboy too soon at times. Sometimes a must that looks not all that active becomes quite active after racking to the carboy... foaming up and causing a bit of a mess. I have never bothered to stir the must in the primary, but last night I gave the primary of a batch a stir, and it increased the activity.

Jim, I would say that there is not one single correct answer, and that it depends on what you are doing and how you want to do it. For example: You are making a dry Chardonnay that you wish to sur-lie age. You would (most likely) ferment it and age it without racking more than once, or not at all. To do this you would need to have some extra juice to top up after the initial vigorous fermentation. Another scenario could be this: You have a Riesling that you want to finish off dry and fruit forward. You start your fermentation cool and maintain the temperature throughout fermentation- maybe as low as 50f or so. If it sticks you may have to warm it up a bit. Since it is at a lower temperature it will be much less vigorous throughout fermentation and can be topped up much more, and should be as cold juice is inclined to become saturated much more easily with Oxygen. This wine may never go dry and will obviously need to be Sorbated or Sterile Filtered. Another version of this method is to ferment cool, and then raise the temperature to complete fermentation to dryness. (this is popular with Chardonnay I would say) I have also racked a bit more early say at 1.010 without ill effects, or racked over the lees into the secondary container, or started and finished in a carboy as was suggested, topping up when things slow down. Oxygen is your friend at the beginning of fermentation, and your enemy at the end. HTH John Dixon

Not sure whether you're asking that of me, or of Dar V.

If you're asking me, I allow Mother Nature to clarify my wines, unless she needs help from Bentonite or some other fining agent. I do not "automatically" fine all my wines.

I don't filter either; don't have one.

vince norris

Vince, I'm not sure who's asking what either here. I don't typically filter my wines either, they seem to clear on their own. Although, every now and then I have a cloudy one that tests my abilities. However, I do stabilize - by adding sorbate or sodium benzoate to avoid the popping bottles. Since I like my wine on the semi sweet side, it seemed to be smart to stabilize. Darlene

Darlene,

Could you comment more on your experience with sodium benzoate? Does it effectively inhibit fermentation and do you notice any flavor changes with it?

Thanks.

Greg, I can't comment because I just started using it and the wine has not aged enough. If you go to Jack Keller's wine site, he talks about using sorbate and sodium benzoate; and the way they may affect the wine. With my first batches batches I didn't stabilize. Maybe I was just lucky, but I didn't have any problems with popping bottles. And then, I had this one batch that started to ferment again in the bottles. After that I started to stabilize my wine (June of this year). The reason I do now, is because I like semi-sweet wine and I realized the temperature fluctuations in my basement during the summer may contribute to renewed fermentation. Wish I could help more. Post the question to the group and see. Darlene

the popping bottles. Since I

Yes, I guess if you bottle wines with residual sugar in them, you might need to take precautions.

Have you considered fermenting your wines to dryness and adding sweetener when you drink them, rather than bottling them that way?

I think fruit wines, especially, taste better if slightly sweet. I add aspertame when I open the bottles. It dissolves instantly.

vince norris

Yes, but not on purpose. I've tried sweetening after opening a couple of bottles which were too dry, and wasn't to thrilled with the results. I guess, I rather take extra steps during the process, than after I open it -By the time I open a bottle, I'm usually ready to relax and kick back. I appreciate the info though. Thanks. Darlene

avoid the popping bottles. Since I

I've been away for several days and out of circulation. Thanks everyone for your extensive comments. I really appreciate it.

Dar, I'm making various grape wines from unconcentrated (23 litre) pasteurized juice. I'm also planning a few non-grape wines when I muster up the courage. I imagine the basic principles should apply regardless.

Ray, Your method mirrors my mentor's quite closely. I spoke with him today and he clarified the basic method for me this way:

1. Primary fermentation to SG 1.00

1. Secondary fermentation for 2 weeks or so. He does not top up carboy. There is sufficient CO2 in wine itself and in ullage (regardless of size) to protect the wine. He lets it quietly finish the ferment for a couple weeks undisturbed. When there are absolutely no visible signs of fermentation he tests SG (looking for 0.995 or less).

2. Rack, top up at this point, and let rest another 3 weeks.

1. Rack and stabilize at this point if desired.

2. Etc. etc.

He claims the secondary fermentation could sit even a couple months and it still would be protected even though not topped up. I don't know this factually, I'm only parroting what he said. All I know is his finished products are not as good as sex -- but almost.

Jim

Good-luck with the grape wines. I have not tried that - I basically do fruit, vegea, and herb wines. The basic principles apply to making any wine, but I've noticed a few differences between postings for making grape wines versus fruit wines; and that's why I asked way back when. Wouldn't want to steer you the wrong way. Darlene