The following is cute. It even includes ice cream. Previously, I had figured that if you knew arriving guests had recently had ice cream, you should darken the lights and pretend there is nobody home until they went away, so as not to waste--not to mention defame and misrepresent--the malt. But now I'm starting to wonder what malt might go best with spumoni.
=============================== Single-Malt Adventure: Written for New Hampshire magazine for the March
2004 issue, I explore a pairing of single malt Scotches with fine tapas at the Beale House Inn in Littleton, New Hampshire.
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"A scotch tasting doesn't usually include a meal. Maybe some dry crackers between sips, but hunger sharpens the senses, so purists avoid a big feed with their single malts. But in the frost bitten, spirit-riddled mountains of Northern New Hampshire...your thoughts depart from protocols of food and formality. And finding a Scotch tasting paired with a tapas-style six-course dinner north of the Notches in the middle of January is not as surprising as it seems like it ought to be...
..Our first whisky was Laphroaig, tasting notes include salty, seaweed and oily. Jose Luis served us smoked duck slices drizzled with a sweet Vidalia onion and fig confit. We moved on to a dry, spicy, smoky Dalmore Cigar Malt, paired with lollipop lamb chops, wood-grilled and finished with a Cointreau apricot glaze over creamy polenta. Then a smoky, raisin-sweet Glen Garioch tasted against a smoked trout cake in balsamic plum glaze. Jose Louis used bok choy tossed with raisins to bring out the fruit in the whisky...
...The professional tasting notes often included some flavors so subtle or so weird that I couldn't have discerned them, or even imagined them, without the cheat sheet: melon balls, tarry rope, boiled sweets, burnt sticks, Lapsang Souchong tea. Nigel's reasoning as to why the heresy of tasting Scotch with a meal was a good idea was sound: the conviviality, the opportunity to linger over each glass, the unique character of Jose Luis' dishes and their potent effect on the palate when combined with a hugely complex liquor ... I would choose this sort of experience any time over the more staid (and hungry) atmosphere of a traditional tasting.
We tucked into the fourth course, Arborio Risotto blended with fontina and havarti cheese topped with a trio of wild mushrooms, paired with a cedary, malty, woody Highland Speyside called Ardmore. Then an amazing Balvenie Single Barrel Limited Edition (one of only 350 bottles) with notes of chocolate, cocoa, toffee and sherry. This Jose Luis matched with red deer venison slices in an espresso, Kahlua reduction over a jalapeno infused sweet potato mash. The sweet undertone of the Scotch teamed up with the Kahlua and head-butted the spicy sweet potatoes. Like the Bolshoi Ballet playing rugby in my mouth. Heaven.
In that contest between spicy and sweet, sweet won as the meal climaxed in a beautifully wrought homemade caramel Mascarpone cheese flan, served with ginger caramel ice cream, paired with Auchentoshan, a rare lowland Scotch noted for its gingery finish.