average yield from 5 gal boil

Taking a poll on what the avg. yield is from a 5 or 5.5 gal boil - I usually end up with 3.5 - 4 gals at most after bottling.

Reply to
lucky4fingers
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I do a 6.5 gal boil. after an hour or so it boils down to 5.5 where I ferment 5.5 gal, then rack 5 gal to a keg.

i.e. I end up with 5 (give or take 0.1 gal) gallons at kegging.

(Do a larger boil...I think there are efficency problems if you are doing all grain. if not, and you are doing extract are your beers ending with a high starting gravity?)

Reply to
Spitzbuben

For me, a 12 gallon start in a 12.5gal pot ends up between 8.5 and 9 gallons after 90 min

Reply to
Phil

I start with 6.25 gallons and end up with 5.5 at the end of a 60 minute boil. My boils aren't that vigorous because I've got a 7 gallon pot.

Reply to
Matt

lucky4fingers, sounds like you need a larger pot to boil the entire wort. You get better hop utilization and better beer boiling the entire volume. Get a 10 gallon (40 quart) pot to do 5 gallon batches. That lets you start with 6.5 or 7 gallons to end up with 5-5.5 gallons and gives plenty of room for the vigorous boil. You then will get 5.5 gallons to start in your primary which after racking, will leave you a full 5 gallons of beer in the secondary.

Reply to
BierNewbie

My starting volume for my last batch was 6 gal. and I ended up with 4

1/2 gal. and added water to achieve 5 gal. It took a long time to get the wort up to a boil. I didn't want to cover the kettle because I didn't want to lock in dms. Will this be burning off before the actual boil? Can I leave the kettle covered until the temp. is around 205F?
Reply to
Fung is brewing, and brewing i

It differes slightly for everyone, but I start my boils at 6.5-6.75 gallons and always end up with around 5.5 gallons in the primary, which allows for some loss on the way to bottling.

We always end up with 50-52 bottles per batch.

----------------------------------------------- John Bleichert snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.net The heat from below can burn your eyes out!!

Reply to
John Bleichert

You can leave the kettle completely covered until you achieve a boil. DMS will be driven off after that point. I do that, and continue the boil with the pot about 80% covered. I've never had DMS problems with my beer. And to be entirely clear, four things are helpful in reducing DMS levels in finished beer: a vigorous boil, a 90-minute or longer boil, limiting stand time after the boil, and chilling the wort rapidly.

Reply to
Joel

Start out with about 5.5 gal. Add ice during the chill process to replace what was lost during boil and helps chill faster.

7lbs ice approx. 1 gal water.
Reply to
mckeyes

I suppose your ice is unlike any around here and completely contaminate free.

Reply to
BierNewbie

Maybe I should actually measure how much goes in the fermenter after my next boil. I do a full 70Min boil in a 10 gal pot. Partial boils & boil overs aren't a problem. Chilled with a home made immersion chiller (I like to build stuff). in ~ 15min.

John Bleichert wrote in news:GB3th.17232$X72.602 @newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net:

Reply to
lucky4fingers

I was always concerned about contamination from the ice too. My friend has been using it for years and never had a problem so I gave it try and it's work fine so far.

Reply to
mckeyes

The beer guru at my local homebrew store ALWAYS adds a bag of ice to the fermenter to help cool the wort, and has never had a problem. I didn't do it for a long time, then finally tried it, not a problem yet.

Reply to
basskisser

"Fung is brewing, and brewing is fung." wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@11g2000cwr.googlegroups.com...

I'm not sure how long DMS would be an issue, but if you have a way to cover the kettle with a lid that is at an angle so the condensation will drip off to the side and not back into the wort, DMS should not be a problem.

I have a 15.5 gal keggle that I do my boils in and I have a lid that fits over the very top of the keg and doesn't cover only the hole I cut in it. I then prop the lid at an angle by putting a clamp on the side so the condensation runs down the lid, hits the handle of the keg and drips into the outer ring of the keg and either evaporates or runs down the side of the keg and cooks off.

I have never had problems with this method, though I don't know what DMS tastes like, but no one has ever said "wow, taste the DMS in this thing!"

--cheers for beers--

LBG Bill

Reply to
LBG Bill

Yea, don't add ice. You lose roughly a gallon in an hour boil.

Reply to
harsley

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