1994 California Cabernet tasting

Oct 10, 2005 7 Replies

This is from a posting today on a relatively new wine blog,

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Anybody else tried these wines (or other '94s) lately?



"It’s been nearly two years since the last tasting of our 1994 california cab horizontal, and that time, the wines were nowhere near as impressive as their pedigree (and their price tags) would have suggested. So it was with a bit of trepidation that we popped the corks on the batch of ‘94s Sunday afternoon.



No worries, mate. The best of the bunch had rebounded nicely, and overall, the wines showed better across the board, with only a few minor disappointments.



Tasting notes of these 1994 cabernets in ascending order of preference:


--Caymus Napa Valley (NOT the Special Select): medicinal on the nose, lacking fruit in the flavors and a short, clipped finish, this wine appears past its prime.


--Pine Ridge Andrus Reserve: meaty-but-not-quite-gamy nose, with tannins smoothed out while retaining good acidity. Fruit is starting to fade, and the finish isn’t quite up to its peers.


--Robert Mondavi Private Reserve: This is one of the two wines that changed the most during the three hours of sampling and nibbling. At first, the nose was muted, and a strong tannic core overshadowed the fruit. But the wine opened up a bit later, and the fruit peeked out. Still, a leaner style of cab.


--Spottswoode Napa Valley: This is the first of three grouped tightly together, and all three very good. The wine boasted a complex array of aromas from dark fruits to a bit of camphor, with a solid core of lush, sweet fruit and a long finish.


--B.R. Cohn Olive Hill: Dark fruits and just a hint of toasty oak in the nose, with dense fruit and solid tannins in the mouth. The tannin cuts the finish just a bit short, but this wine still has a ways to go to reach its peak.


--Chateau Montelena Estate: Similar in structure to the BR Cohn, this is a deep and brooding wine with a tannic edge at first sip. The tannins later step aside to let the dense core of ripe fruit emerge. A lengthy finish bodes well for the future as well.


--LaJota Howell Mountain: This wine boasts everything you’d want in a California cabernet. There’s a purity of fruit evident beginning with the nose, and it delivers on the palate with ripe, beautifully balanced dark fruits and a long, luxurious finish. Fruit, acidity, tannin and oak are all aligned in the proper balance. One sip begs the next, and you won’t want to put the glass down.


--Dominus Napanook: About 10 years ago, I attended a tasting put together by the Arrow Wine folks that pitted 1990 Bordeaux against 1990 California cabs. The tasters were served several wines blind and had to guess which was the country of origin. It was more difficult than I expected, and the one wine I was slam-dunk, ain’t-no-doubt-about-it certain came from France was … the Dominus from California. The 1994 also smells and tastes like its French brethren, with hints of brett, lead pencil and iodine alongside fruit in the incredibly complex nose. In the mouth, the wine has a full array of complex but still ultimately fruit-driven flavors. And what a finish.



Hmmm . Maybe we didn’t waste our money after all …



Cheers!



"Uncorked"



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Only ones I've tried (and not recently) are '94 Montelena and '94 Napanook (it's not clear from the blog, but it's worth noting that Napanook is the "second" wine, and really shouldn't be referred to as the Dominus).

DaleW: I believe the 1994 Dominus Napanook Vineyard is "The Dominus." See

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MF/Uncorked:

Well, it's certainly my mistake, as I thought I'd tried a '94 Napanook, and the Napanook wasn't started till '96- thinking back, I guess I was thinking of Joseph Phelps Napa CS. I think of Napanook to Dominus as Phelps Napa to Insignia, or Montelena Napa to Montelena Estate.

In general I'm not used to hearing Dominus's flagship wine referred to as Dominus Napanook (though the vineyard is on the label on at least some bottles), certainly not since Dominus started bottling the Napanook line. My point is that a reader might run across a bottle of a more recent vintage of Napanook and think "hey, there's the wine that beat out Montelena Estate and Mondavi PR, even though it's less than half the price"

I'm not a cab fan but when it was released I bought two cases of 1994 Mondavi cab (not the reserve, the regular one) because a friend of mine likes cab and was always complaining about my lack of cab in the house. Then he moved away...

A few weeks ago I opened a bottle-- and it was quite nice. The tannins have subsided (strong tannins are the reason I don't like cabernet) but it's still fruity and flavorful. Does not taste ten years old and is very drinkable. If I'd known this is what it'd be like ten years later I would have bought more.

Shaun Eli

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Brain Champagne: Clever Comedy for the Smarter Audience (sm)

I still have a few 1994s in my cellar from napa:

Silver Oak---still a baby and strong fruit-tannins remain

Montelena--still young and strong.

Phelps Insignia have not tried since release....hope its still good...only 2 bottles in cellar.

Mondavi, Reserve...drank last bottle a few weeks ago..it was outstanding.

not much else of 94.

I just checked my database, too, Dick. I've still got the Mondavi and Insignia, as well as the Dunn Howell Mtn and a bottle of Galante Red Rose Hill (long story there). I'll drink mine when you drink yours ;-)

Mark Lipton

We drank a bottle of the Insignia this past February and it was outstanding. Still has great body.

Still have the Mondavi, Beringer PR, Stag's Leap Cask 23, and some Insignias. Of the four, the Insignia showed the best this year.

All four were quite good. We tried an Opus One 94 late last year, and it was disappointing. Oddly grassy and herbal.

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