The Au Bon Climat Arroyo Grande Valley Reserve Talley Chardonnay 1992 was properly stored since release, and had a good cork and high fill. As I have mentioned before, the reserve Chardonnays of ABC usually can be counted on to age and improve over 10 years if properly stored. Perhaps I have been lucky, but I have yet to taste an ABC reserve Chardonnay that is oxidized even after well over 10 years of storage.
This wine is light lemon in color. It is now smoothed and not harsh as when young. There is enough acidy, a creamy character and a bit of pineapple fruit in addition to citrus fruit. There is considerable toast, but the oak is not out of control. This is in contrast to the reserve Bien Nacido wines I have had which are more of a citrus character, often grapefruit. I don't know if this difference is caused by different clones of Chardonnay or the different climate conditions and soil in the two vineyards, which are separated by quite a distance. The microclimates vary greatly in the wine regions around this part of California.
The fruit tells you this is not a French white Burgundy- too tropical. The Bien Nacido is more Burgundy like - Corton Charlemagne comes to mind. The top home vineyard Mount Eden Estate Chardonnays are perhaps a bit more like a Puligny-Montrachet and last a long time in many years. However I have found some that are not in top form in some years.
As for ABC top reserve Chardonnays, I don't think tasting them young helps, and you can safely forget about them for 10 years before you open the first bottle. Unless you like the bite of a young wine built to age, opening them early is a waste, in my opinion.