The Babcock Vineyards Grand Cuvee Santa Barbara County Chardonnay 1990 was properly stored since shortly after release. This was a single bottle that I misplaced and found just recently. I expected it to be well over the peak.
The fill was still high in the neck and the cork was sound. The color was still light yellow. The bouquet was clean and complex without a trace of oxidation. This is not a fruit bomb as are some California Chardonnays that often do not last well. It has mixed citrus notes of lemon and grapefruit, a bit of beeswax, and a hint of melon. There is plenty of acidity, but it is now smooth. This wine was a bit harsh when young. There is a bit of slate character. It is quite complex and well balanced. There was not a lot of oak as one often finds in fruit bombs after just a few years. Although of course different, this wine has aged just about like a top Corton Charlemagne, which is quite rare in California. Au Bon Climat Reserve Chardonnays from Santa Barbara and surrounding areas also often can age well over 10 years. I find the older ABC wines to be of a fuller style than the mentioned Babcock. I have now tasted many wines from the Santa Barbara that prove that California Chardonnay can develop well over 10 years when well made.