August Lunch Notes

Aug 04, 2007 3 Replies

Blind tasting lunch notes:


11 people and 14 wines! This one took a little longer than normal.


2003 Les Brottiers Cote du Rhone Rosé - nice pink wine with a dry, clean pleasant finish. Nice way to start!


2006 Dunham and Froese 'Night Hawk' Pinot Blanc - a new BC winery obviously unaware of the existence of the classic 'Night Train' when they chose this name. Light in colour, a soft wine without pretension, nice feel for a summer sipper.


2003 Zind Humbrecht Rotenberg Pinot Gris - I guessed this as an Alsatian Tokay right off the bat but was mendaciously told it wasn't just because the label said it was PG not Tokay! Hmmph! Good colour, hint of spice an a smooth slightly warm mouth feel . An uncharacteristic 15.5% alcohol!


2003 Moss Wood Margaret River Chardonnay - an excellent toasty nose with a hint of coconut and mace, lots of acidity (which sent us away from Australia). Tons of interest in the nose and on palate. Excellent wine!


1970 Haut Brion - pale rim, obvious aged mature Bordeaux nose, faint hints of tannin remaining, starting to lose fruit but the balance was still good - an elegant mature Bordeaux. Delightful.


2002 Coche-Dury Meursault Cote de Beaune Rouge - a Burg from out in left field. Nice sweet fruit in the nose, an uplifting surge on palate and a silky smooth slightly sweet finish. What a pleasant surprise!


2003 Annick Parent Volnay 1 Cru Fremiets - another wine that performed above expectation. Darker colour, with more depth to the nose, a spicy cherry melange, no funkiness at all - completely fruit driven. Drinks exceptionally well now and no reason to hold it although it is still on the upswing.


1983 Ch. d'Issan - a house we don't see much of here. Nice obviously mature nose with tobacco and berries plus medium tannin and good but not effusive fruit led me correctly to the vintage but I couldn't go further. Enjoyable wine.


1990 La Poderina Brunello - corked


2005 Quinta Ferreira Malbec - a wine that showed no hint of varietal character from a BC producer I had never heard of (a grower recently turned winery) yet quite decent . Dark purple, grapey sweet ripe nose, pleasant finish.


1997 Castello Banfi Summus - the nose was very much like a Bordeaux with fresh currant, a fairly international sort of wine with the only hint of origin being the slightly high terminal acidity. Once we located it in Italy, the vintage came easily. Could use some more time.


1995 Pertimali Brunello - a favourite producer for me ( I still have a few of the wonderful 1988). Thick legs, fairly dark, still lots of tannin, good fruit and a dry fi9nish featuring - yes, more tannin. Drinks fairly well now but should improve.


1995 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva - big time cherries and vanilla with a hint of coconut in the nose, and while it drinks nicely now there is absolutely no rush. Very enjoyable.


1991 Quinta do Vesuvio Port - while I have this wine (and the 1992) in my cellar and while some reviewers (Parker) have suggested that it will drink well young, to me this is barely coming together and needs time. Hot sweet nose beginning to meld, and smell like Port rather than fruit and spirit, and on palate the unresolved alcohol and youthful flavours nonetheless indicate a promising future.

I have a few bottles of 1970 Haut Brion, and it still is holding well. It is not as intense and concentrated as the 70 Mouton, but better balanced, in my opinion. Lafite and Margaux 1970 are several steps down. Latour 1970 is still youthful, and perhaps is the wine of the vintage - excluding Petrus, it unfortunately is now one of the most expensive wines of the vintage if you have to buy it at auction now.

The 70 HB was not as mediocre as Parker made out. It is probably a tad past it now and was better 10 years ago, but it is holding fairly well. I'd suggest that drinking your bottles sooner rather than later would afford you more pleasure.

The Latour is monumental and IMHO the equal of the Petrus, especially given price.

I had a whole case of Haut Brion at one time, and have been drinking it for many years. It has been ready a long time, but I do not detect any decline in recent bottles. It has been stored under good, cool conditions since release. I had no idea of what Parker thought, until you mentioned it. I quit paying any attention to him many years ago.I have seen mixed fairly recent reviews from the UK. I suspect there may be considerable bottle variation in the 1970 HB, considering that some of the tasting reports were from people who often have much the same impressions of a wine as I do. According to auction price reports in the Aug. 2007 Decanter, 1970 HB is selling for about 920 Pounds per case, more than Lafite, Margaux, Mouton. Cheval Blanc is a bit more at 1058 Pounds. Next comes Petrus at 6050 Pounds, not unusual for Petrus. Latour is at the top at 6670 Pounds - ouch!. This is one of the few cases where Latour sells for more than Petrus for a given year. Contrast this with that darling-of-the-auction-room, 1982. A case of Latour goes for 13225 Pounds while Petrus goes for 29900 Pounds. At this point even at the high price, Latour 1970 likely is a much better bargin than Latour 1982, since the reputation of 1970 as a whole is not as high as 1982.

I would say, with a few exceptions such as Latour, you should carefully check most 1970 red Bordeaux ever several years now, if you still have a few bottles of a single wine. There are some that are now way past their best, even if properly stored.

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