Barolo

I had a 1997 Pio Cesare Barolo 2 years ago (I know, infanticide) but did not take notes.

IMHO I do not think one can adequately assess Barolo (or, for that matter, Nebbiolo, the grape) by comapring it with Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir. Furthermore, Nebbiolo finds differing statements in Barolo, Barbera, Gattinara and Nebbiolo d'Alba (and other wines which I have not had the good fortune to taste, for instance Ghemme). I really do remember having a glass of a very jammy Nebbiolo from Lombardy (not Piemonte) 4-5 years ago in a small eatery in Rome as well - but since I find no reference to Lombardian Nebbiolo elsewhere, I sometimes think I was mistaken. And aren't the wines in Valtellina made from Nebbiolo as well? There must be others - even if not among the DOC's.

The Nebbiolo does usually impart a brownish tinge to the rim of the pour in all these cases (which spreads with ageing, in my experience). The grape also gives its wines a powerful balance between acidity, tannins and "extraktstoffe". The classic nose of violets tends to be common across all Nebbiolo-based wines that I have tried.

With Barolo especially, I feel, the ageing in wood imparts it a typical structure. I also find Barolo often (not always) to be heavier on tannins, saddle, tobacco and mud than Barbaresco - which has, to my palate, a "lightness of being". Not lightness, which I taste, as an example, in Gattinara, just a kind of elegance and finesse.

And of course, even Gattinara's lightness is only in comparison to Barolo and Barbaresco. In fact, it is this "lightness", which makes it

- for my money - to be more accessible, especially when not very old.

Depending on the producer and vintage, fruit and spice characteristics of a Barolo vary. In fact the wine is typically such a bomb that I have sometimes sniffed at a poured glass for an hour or more (no kidding) without sipping. Just could not bring myself to sip it - it felt like licking a Rafaelo fresco!

I have once had a 22-year old Barbaresco (thanks to a distress sale, not a lottery win) and it was one of the most exhilirating experience in wine-drinking that I have ever had. But I have not had a Barolo that old, yet. I am keeping a few though - at least for 3-4 years.

Also, wit regards to greenness, I remember someone telling me to air a Barolo or a Barbaresco for 40-60 minutes per year of age. I do not think the person meant this advice for 20 year old wines though.

Cheers

More on Pio Cesare. (from my wine memoirs)

Planning for the 30 day trip to Italy, Jim Morris and I took in 1985, started almost 6 months before. Of the major "houses". Phil Debelardino of Hublein got us lodging at Ceretto, Monsanto and Capazzana. Mark DeGrazia made arrangements to meet him in Tuscany.

A few firms resisted our attempts for appointments based on the fact that I worked part time at a small retailer, so my response from William Grants stable was negative. My friends the Currados of Vietti got us into G. Conterno.

Paterno Imports also turned us down until I talked to one of their VPs, so visits to Ratti, Pio Cesare and Lungarotti were scheduled. When I first started to work for Milford Liquors, the Paterno Maryland rep came to see me to see if I would order more Corvo and Santa Margherita. He was surprised we had Lungarotti in stock. At the time decent vintages of Ratti and Pio Cesare were not available in Maryland. After talking with the wholesaler, I got about 5 other accounts to order the latest Ratti Dolcetto and 1982 Ratti Barolos and the latest Pio Cesare Gavi and 1982 Barolo. In the mean time the Paterno rep was fired because although his overall sales were up he did not sell his quota of Corvo. Later on the regional Paterno rep got very upset when he learned the DeGrazia facings in most major Maryland accounts exceeded those of Paterno, which upset Mr. Terlato who did so much for me in 1985. The word betrayal was used to my describe my subsequent activities as De Grazia's Maryland rep.

Anyway, I was warmly greeted by the late Signor Ratti. Naturally he was interested in our "Program" and when he found out that I was dining with the Currados, Ceretto, Borgogno and Giacosa wanted us to schedule a meal with him. Pio Boffa had talked to Robert Parker, Angelo Gaja and my friends the Currados and decided against Paterno's advice and arranged a meal with us at Daniels in Alba, where he presented all his wines over a leisurely lunch.