Barolo and Madeira

Notes of a mostly Barolo dinner.

1995 Nicolas Feulliatte Brut - very nice clean yeasty nose, and lke apple juice in the mouth. Lots of life ahead.

1990 Roederer Cristal - showing more colour, of course, and a sweet toasty nose (sweeter than the last time I had this about 3 months ago). Lots of acidity, smooth and quite complex.

With fresh oyster, Dungeness crab cake, smoked salmon, cucumber salad and prawn piri-piri.

2005 Giacosa Roero Arneis - as always, Arneis are nice! Showing a bit of colour, and a very nice nose with floral and pear components - lots of flavour, soft and with good length.

With grilled Tuna with olives and caper sauce and slices of potato, sort of a deconstructed salade Nicoise - very good

2004 Raveneau Chablis 'Foret' - interesting wine, very light in colour with an initially steely nose, clean and very dry. It picked up a nicely perfumed nose as it opened, but is such a baby that I'm sure I'd like it a lot more in a few years.

2002 Christian Moreau Chablis Vaillon - lemon, stone and a hint of smoke in this nose, more complex in the mouth, with some nuttiness. Much more development than the Raveneau.

2000 Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche di Falletto Riserva - (didn't get a good look at this label - know it was reserve but didn't note the vineyard) Tar and meat in the nose, the wine tight and a bit astringent, a mere baby and needs a lot fo time. It ended with a very pleasant anise note.

With veal saltimbocca

1997 Azelia Barolo San Rocco - a new age Barolo, dark, an unusual cedar nose (reminded us of a sauna, ripe, with notes of prunes and tar, and lots of tannin. I am a dedicated fan of the traditional style, but could appreciate this sort of wine as well.

1998 Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra - dark wine with a simple tarry nose with hints of black cherry and chocolate as it opened up. Smooth but still very tannic.

1978 Prunotto Riserva Barolo - still dark and showing age only in the lightening edges, this had a lovely mature nose of cocoa, musky leather and freshly tarred road as well as some of the classic rose petal that had been lacking in the earlier wines. It also had significant very dry tannins and a slght astringency at the end. I love these mature wines!

With braised short ribs with espresso and mushroom demi sauce:

1989 Pio Cesare Barolo - lighter colour than the 1978, and it was perfectly mature with a fairly long life ahead. It showed a mature nose with the usual tar, some spice and anise, and good mature plum., with the roses kicking in after it had aired a bit. Silky smooth and elegant. This is the reason I cellar Barolos and forget about them for a decade or two. By the way, all wines except the 1978 had been opened as far ahead of time as could be arranged.

With cheese:

1996 Gaja Sperss Barolo - dark, with tarry sweet nose showing mushroom and a floral note. Good body, lots of tannin, but surprisingly approachable at this relatively young age. This will just continue to get better with age.

1997 Dal Forno Recioto (1/2 bottle) - we were a bit flummoxed at first because there was a distinctive musty note in the nose that closely resembled TCA. I finally concluded that it probably wasn't, but there was always the nagging feeling that maybe.... In any case, there were no problems on palate with this remarkable wine. It also showed cherry and chocolate, was thick and sweet in the mouth, slightly hot (although only 14%) with amazing concentration, but also finished well, much less sweetly than expected.

We then went on to a couple of delightful rarities brought by Roy Hersh, my favourite purveyor of all things Port-like, although in this instance no Port was in evidence (anything is possible though - I left the others well after midnight, still seething with totally unconcealed lust for even more wine, so...)

Rare Wine Madeira - New Orleans Special Reserve - part of their historic series, this wine was made from the almost extinct Terrantez grape. Medium to light golden colour, dry nuts and raisined fruit in the nose, some sweetness and burnt caramel in the mouth but the wine finished quite dry. While the finish clamped down a bit at the end as far as showing complexity, the sense of the wine lingered on. Very interesting.

Borges 1940 Reserve Solera Verdelho - another interesting Madeira - pale brown, hot sweet nose with a waxiness, clean on palate, finishing dry.

Great evening!!

Reply to
Bill S.
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Great evening? I'm surprised you are still amongst the living. From this list I would have thought someone would be dead of alcohol poisoning by now.

How many people at this dinner? That is a lot of wine. And if I sound jealous, .... I am!

Reply to
AxisOfBeagles

Terrantez does have a taste and nose different from Malmsey or Bual. It is a pity that not much Madeira is being made from it anymore. I have Vintage Terrantez 1846, Borges, bottled 1900; 1862, Rutherford Miles; 1899 Blandy. I got these at auction many years ago when the price was relatively reasonable. If you could find such wines today, the cost likely would be very high. Michael Broadbent has published tasting notes on quite a few old Terrantez Madeiras and found several that he liked quite well.

Other Madeiras that are not made much anymore are Bastardo and Moscatel. I have Bastardo vintages 1870, Blandy; 1875, Cossart Gordon;

1927 Leacock. I only have the vintage Moscatel 1900, Oliveira. Both Bastardo and Moscatel are well worth tasting if you ever get the chance.

Verdelho typically is not as sweet as Malmsey or Bual. It keeps well. I have Vintage Verdelho 1850, Oliviera, bottled 1980; 1905, Oliviera;

1934, Miles. Again Michael Broadbent has tasted many vintages of Verdelho from the 1800s and he liked many of these quite well.
Reply to
cwdjrxyz

Wonderful notes Bill. I've done a few tastings with Roy and his brother Mitch over the years. Good people and a lot of fun!

Reply to
Bi!!

I love old Madeiras, but have failed to collect them back when the prices were still good.

This group were some serious toss-pots. That bunch of wine was consumed by 8 people, and anyone that was chugging it back in any more volume than my own moderate amounts will be suffering (deservedly) today!

Reply to
Bill S.

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