Brocard, Carillon, Chanson, Banfi, Pesquera...

Notes from my monthly lunch, with one guest, Rob Caine from Virginia, a Burgundy maven attending from out of town.

2001 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc – maybe it was just me, but the nose on this one was pretty indeterminate for the first few minutes, although it finally resolved itself with some grassy notes. Some good flavour in mid-palate and still with tons of acidity, but not searingly so.

With sturgeon:

2002 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Prem. Cru ‘Montmains’ – how nice to have such an interesting array of whites this time out! A lightly toasted chardonnay nose with some apple and mineral, more fruit on palate than the Cloudy Bay, supple, well balanced and pleasurable.

With ravioli and frogs legs soup:

1989 Louis Carillon Puligny Montrachet Champ Canet – what a wonderful opportunity to taste a mature white Burgundy, and a lovely one. Fair bit of colour in this, and a great sweet caramel lemon and a soft, full, complex wine in the mouth. Makes me wish I cellared these wines!

1997 Chanson Beaune Clos du Roi – slightly dirty funky nose, good entry and medium body, good length and acidity – elegant.

1996 Los Vascos Grand Reserve – this Chilean Bordeaux look-alike made under the auspices of Ch. Lafite has always been a favourite of mine. This time out, it completely fooled me into thinking it was a Bordeaux – the nose, weight and feel were just right. As always, excellent balance and a great bargain.

With rare Saltspring Island lamb:

2000 Shingle Peak Pinot Noir – from New Zealand, a Pinot loaded with mint in the nose, sweet and mature in the mouth. Some felt this had slightly too high terminal acidity, but it wasn’t a problem for me.

1993 Castello Banfi Brunello – the acidity was the tip off to Italy, and given colour, the age was obvious – 1990 is much bigger and sweeter and there just isn’t any other vintage in the first half of the 90s that stands up so well. The nose is now mature, the wine harmonious, and it is drinking as well as it ever will.

1991 Pesquera Crianza – this is probably drinking as well as it ever will right now. Quite dark with a sweet clean berry nose with a hint of vanilla and coconut, and good structure. It has lots of time left, and if I had one criticism it is the relative simplicity of the wine.

With cheese:

2001 Velenosi Ercole Ludi – a tre bicchieri cab merlot blend from Marche. This big purple sucker was young and tannic but had an abundance of sweet fruit and a fair bit of acidity that asserted itself right at the end. Good.

1997 Masi Osar – this wine has progressed since I had it a year ago. Fairly dark with a raisin and peppermint nose and good feel in the mouth, although a little lacking in mid-palate fruit. Excellent length.

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Bill Spohn
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