Hello; For those of you aware of my absence, I´m back. For those who are not, I´ve been away. But am back. OK? Yesterday the Society of Tastevines' Official Splintergroup, the Mickey Mouse Commando, held a clandestine Gwz tasting in a small dark cellar (password was 'swordfish' - they´ll never figure that one out!). Accompaniment was first, a plate of mixed goodies, shi-take, chevre wrapped in jambon cru, spicy lime-scented pork, olives ... followed by a chicken marinated in soy, garlic and ginger. Concluded by a vanilla pannacotta with strawberry coulis.
- Jean Ginglinger 2002 (Pfaffenheim) - producer is certified biodynamic. Vines are grown on a chalky terroir, which apaprently in Alsace is rather uncommon. Bottle bought from producer at a 'Bionazur' manifestation in Nice at the very moderate price of EU 6 [c] very light yellow [n] old Enlgish roses, mature grapefruits, and, startlingly, hops [p] dry as a bone, pleasing bitterness, and, again, grapefruits
2.Coop Kaysersberg-Kinzenheim GC Schloosberg 1996 - bought at estate, price unknown. The site is 'granitique'. [c] pale gold [n] velvety smooth, white flowers, generous, candy [p] caraway, roundness, suppleness, grapefruit, ends on slight bitterness of bitter oranges, or, possibly, the merest hint of wormwood, balanced by residual sugar.
- Francois Baur Langehald 1999 - c EU 9. LAngehald is a parcel close to GC Brand and like that great vineyard on granit bedrock. Producer claims biodynamicity from vintage 2001 - since to do so, one also guarantees that three vintages have been produced in accordancve with biodynamic principles, this should be so, cow´s horn, lunar cycles and all. However, according to some sources, the produceris not _certified_ as biodynamic, only as 'biologique'. [c] pale gold [n] something reminiscent of sulphur? not quite harmonious, somewhat rustic, but creamy and develops to smoothness. [p] a certain fieryness, sweetness, almonds nad nuts
- Hurst GC Brand 1997 bought at estate, price unknown [c] gold [n] cloudberries, vanilla, rhubarb [p] violets, unctuousness, acidity and sweetness in a mellow and complex balance
- Dom Ostertag SGN Fronholtz 1998 Bought at estate, price EU 25 (375 ml). Producer is apparently also into biodynamics, as well as poetry ... Fronholtz is a parcel resting on clay and quartz (flint according to one web site). [c] gold [n] vanilla, raisin, honey [p] intense sweetness, backed up by a delicious and delicate acidity What is most noticable in this wine is the lack of anything identifying it as a Gewurztraminer. Organoleptic burn out syndrome on the part of tasters? ALso, there is not any hint what so ever of botrytis. It would appear this wine was made from perfectly healthy grapes.
It should be noticed that most of the wines come from granitic soil, and that the one from chalk differs considerably in its compelte lack of residual sugar. Most Gwz from Alsace appears to have some sweetness, not so this one. Number one is a highly satisfying wine at very modest price; recommended. I would point out that in no case did any of the tasters fall back on the time honored 'exotic fruit' charcter often associated with Gwz. Of course, in France cloudberries would appear exotic, and in Scandinavia grape fruit used to be exotic ... but real exotics, like mango, lychee, or pineapples, were conspicuous by their absence.
This secret message from the Splintergroup of the Society of Tastevins, Helsingborg, will self-destruct after reading ... if not, please eat your computer to avoid the message falling into the wrong hands ...
CHeers!
Nils Gustaf