Dinner Notes

Recent dinner notes:
with steak tartar, squash soup and crab crostini appetizers
Lanson Black Label NV – I got this after the sales for 2000 – 2001, so
it was probably made a couple of years earlier – in any case somewhat
venerable for an NV champers, but I’d popped a bottle recently and
found it to be quite tasty. Nice complexity in the nose, and some
colour, and a clean acidic finish.
with seared sablefish:
2005 Lucien Crochet Sancerre Le Chene – I also brought this (I know,
I’m blowing my rep as a red wine guy). Fresh acidity gave a juicy feel
in the mouth, clean and long.
2001 Ch. Carbonnieux – also very good but obviously in a different
idiom. Smooth, soft and full with good length and nice fruit in the
middle, but lacked the sparkling clean feeling of the Sancerre.
with foie gras stuffed into a small Granny Smith baked apple:
2002 A.F. Gros Vosne Romanee ‘Aux Reas’ – this Burgundy was pleasant
but nothing special – simple fruit nose, medium weight.
2001 Florent de Merode Corton Bressandes – I was pleased to try this
as I have this wine as well as the Clos de Roi in the cellar waiting
for a suitable time. Darker wine with pronounced cherry aromas,
excellent fruit in the mouth and an enticing hint of nutmeg in the
finish. Needs time.
with braised veal cheeks and dried pancetta on linguini:
1995 Clos des Papes CNduP (magnum) – excellent Rhone nose, classy
bottle with soft tannins and good acidity. drinsk well now but no rush
at all.
with duck breast and confit:
1995 Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva (magnum) – a surprisingly sweet
floral nose on this one, and good fruit. Still has tannins but drinks
well now.
1987 Ch. Mouton Rothschild (magnum) – an intermezzo in the dinner, and
while many 1987s are past peak, this one showed very well. earth, iron
and plums in the nose, very decent, not much tannins and not quite as
fat and round in the mouth as a better vintage usually is, but decent
with cheese:
2001 Amarone Tedeschi ‘Capitel Monte Olmi’ – purple wine, very sweet
nose, too hot, with lavish levels of alcohol, hot and spirity, very
ripe flavours, almost Port sweet. This one turned me off – and I have
a couple of bottles, too. Guess I’ll leave them another decade and
cross my fingers.
with dessert:
1983 Grahams – as it happened I had drunk the 1983 Taylors at lunch
the day before, so had a chance to mentally compare them. The Grahams
wasn’t as sweet as it usually is, and was hotter and darker than the
Taylors. Very nice. Checked my list and for some unknown reason I
bought this in magnum. Gonna be awhile……
Reply to
Bill S.
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Good wine. The (not-denied) rumor is that since the Baron dies that year, they blended in a decent dose of the 1986 as a memorial. I think 5% is legal, but rumors are it was a bit more.
Reply to
Ha, I did a double take, read this first as "blended in a decent dose of the Baron as a memorial. I think 5% is legal..." Leave it to the French to legislate how much funerary ash can be added to a cuvee, eh? ;)
Reply to
Emery Davis
To the best of my knowledge, there is no funerary ash in jewish religion, and the Baron was burried traditionally.
Reply to
Michael Pronay

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