A quick trip to the windswept Cotentin began with rain, and after a full day touring submarines (you'll be happy to know that crew on French nuclear subs are provided with wine, fresh baked bread and what looked like an excellent espresso machine. But sad (or relieved) to know that apparently they mostly drink soda.) we were ready for a nap before supper. Alas, the hotel was closed, a "back at 19h00" sign affixed to the door. Well, what can you expect, 50 EU for 4 people and a dog?
So, off to the beach at cap de la Hague, to throw round granite "galets" into the surf, and see if the wind would blow them back. An hour later, the children's boots filled with sea water and the Golden Retriever suitably soggy, we arrive to find the hotel inhabited. We are predictably the only hotel guests, but not the only to brave the by-now tempest and convene in the pleasant dining room before the fire. (The bedroom however was freezing, I think they don't get many off-season guests...)
A wine list to be reckoned with: only the appellation, not a producers name in site. Well, I already felt bad for having asked for an ice cube in my (not very good) scotch -- the daughter disappeared for 15 minutes before announcing tersely: no ice, desolé -- so I wasn't about to hassle about who made what wine, and have her running back and forth to the kitchen. Relax, right? I order the Quincy. Sorry, we're out. OK, Cheverny, at 11 EU. It arrives and proves to be a 2006 Petit Chambord from Cazin. Fairly lush but with good acidity, a nice bottle to accompany bulot and shrimp, then scallops on apple slices with calvados cream. Actually a pretty good dinner, not withstanding a sub-standard cheese ration.
(I notice a couple at another table also drinking the Cazin. The following day we actually encounter them on the cliffs at Joburg and discuss the wine, the fellow expressing his regret that the Cour Cheverny wasn't available, and then being amazed that an American knew it was made from romorantin.)
It fell to me to take the dog out for a last try, the storm now full blown I was really chilled on entry, but a decent calva took the edge off and allowed me to crawl shivering cheerfully into the glacial but clean sheets.
It being in the general interest to get moving early, we headed for Vauville and got the blood moving with a brisk climb up to the ancient site of Pouquelées, formerly a neolithic alley of standing stones which the locals had the foresight to cart off for a bridge building project (I can just hear them: "Ben, ca vaut plus rien") without obtaining the required authorizations. The arduous task of pushing the boulders back up the hill hardly seems adequate punishment. Anyway we worked up an appetite even without the Sisyphus impressions, and then set out to find a restaurant. Alas, in Vauville in winter, the establishments are closed. (As is the tropical garden, which I had really hoped to see.)
At 13h30 in France, as in much of Europe, it is catch as catch can as far as lunch is concerned. At 2 pm not even the dog will get a bone, not that he gets lunch anyway. So we entered the nearest available place, the Restaurant de la Poste, in nearby Beaumont-La Hague, without much hope nor so much as a glance at the menu outside. Confronted at the door with the choice between "Carte" or "Menu" we picked the latter which apparently also determined seating, as we were plunked (smilingly anyway) in a back room with the locals, 2 other dogs, and a blaring TV. (We admired a nice looking dining room off to the side, but weren't invited to visit it.)
The menu consists of Lobster Mousseline, followed by tuna steaks or pork sauté. Hmm. Don't feel like "vin ordinaire" en pichet, so I ask for the wine list.
What's this? 98 La Nerthe for 40 EU? My attention is got! But also, Thierry Germain Roches Neuves Saumur Champigny. As I only remember his whites, give this 2006 try. Nice bright rasberry fruit, liquorice, a little leather, some green herbaceous notes. Good. Goes of course only passably well with the really excellent quenelles-style mousseline, where I mostly stick with water. But a fine match with the good tuna steak and brasserie fries.
Somehow we hit the jackpot on the rugged coast! What's the world coming to. Next time I spring for a hotel with heat, though.
-E