Joy of cooking with wine

Aug 11, 2004 5 Replies

Alsatian cooking is famous for slow-cooked mixed-meat stews with wine and vegetables (Baekeoffe, choucroute) as Belgian and German cooking is famous for stews with beer (one of my favorites from Germany, anciently simple, uses equal weights of three ingredients: leeks, beef, beer). Medieval Italian construction workers reportedly developed "Il peposo" by tossing cheap market cuts of meat into an outdoor pot with red wine and peppercorns in the morning, cooking it slowly for a mid-day meal. The centuries have not improved on the idea.



Circumstance lately gave me mushrooms and two cuts of beef about one kg each, internally lean and fibrous. I wanted to make something good that would keep, but without trouble. What to do?



What I did was assemble in a stew pot in the following order, dried herbs (especially marjoram), good red wine, a large handful of garlic cloves peeled and mashed lightly with the side of a large knife; two each fresh carrots and onions diced, and a little diced ham. Leaving these ingredients to get acquainted, I trimmed the outer fat from the beef, and sliced across the grain forming disks or cutlets about 1-1.5 cm or one-half inch thick, rubbed just a little salt onto them, and layered them among the wine and aromatic vegetables. Adding more wine (altogether a good 1.5 bottles) to cover it all, I covered the pot and heated gently on the stove to a boil, then reduced to barely bubbling. While it cooked I cleaned a scant kg of large fresh button mushrooms with a damp brush (minimizing water directly on the mushrooms, which they would tend to absorb) and kept them ready.



After an hour of gentle bubbling, the stew's components had given off liquid, combining with the wine. I drew off a liter or so of liquid with a shallow ladle, and reduced it in a separate saucepan over a strong flame to about one-third its original volume, and kept this second pot simmering, while the stew continued to cook. After a total of two hours of gentle bubbling, the meat cutlets were tender and I removed them to a platter (intending them to cool and be stored with the rest of the stew for later use). I beat a little flour with some wine and incorporated into the remaining stew to give just a little thickening, like a light syrup. I then quartered the mushrooms and added them to the stew pot along with the reduced liquid, cooking all vigorously for just a few minutes so the mushrooms were just done and tender. I also did final salting at this time. Off of the heat to cool and join the meat for later use. Result was wonderful, better on reheating as usual, served with coarse bread and more good red wine on the side. Also, house smelled richly of wine, garlic, herbs, mushrooms. (Almost worth the effort just for that.)



Here is a related book posting from 1992 (Morrison Wood):



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-- Max


Salut/Hi Max Hauser,

le/on Tue, 10 Aug 2004 22:19:08 -0700, tu disais/you said:-

Actually, the rest of France is not far behind. Think of Daube Provençale Boeuf Bourguignon, Carbonnades Flamandes (beer of course) , Salmis de Palombes and so on.

Yum.

I'd have added a stalk of celery and perhaps a thinly sliced leek for complete decadence.

WONDERFUL phrase.

disks or cutlets about 1-1.5 cm or one-half inch thick, rubbed just a little salt onto them,

Now here you're rather departing from mainstream french cookery practice, though of course not for a baekeoffe. Usually in France, on would lightly brown the slices in a mixture of oil and butter, just to give a slightly richer and more caramelised depth of flavour.

I just give them a perfunctory wipe, to make sure that there's no grit from the compost casing. I suspect that any wiping will add more germs than it will remove ;-)) They'll all be killed in the long simmering anyway!

Very interesting technique, which I don't think I've seen before for a stew. Sounds an excellent idea. What _I_ do, for what it's worth, if using a lot of wine and don't want a very copious sauce, is either to boil down the wine _before_ adding it, or cook the dish fully, and THEN reduce.

The clue that you live in the States. When I first came to live here, I did a beef stew with wine as was my wont in the UK, and when we came to eat it, found the beef was very tough. So the next time I went to the butcher, I told her. I remember her reply to this day. "Ah monsieur, mais vous êtes en Corrèze, ici on ne mange pas du baby-boeuf, vous aurez dûle faire mijoter 5 heures!" But sir, here you're in the Correze, no baby beef for us you should have simmered it for 5 hours.". 20 years and BSE later, sadly that's not quite as true as it was. But we still reckon to simmer our beef 3-4 hours to get it good and tender. By the way, you might like to prolong the pleasure, by spreading the cooking over several days. You cook at a lower temperature, defatting as you go, for three days, about an hour or more each day, cooking _from cold_ in the oven. You tend to get a tenderer piece of meat, whithout any tendancy to fal apart into fibres.

Shush, I'm literally salivating!

Hi/Salut Ian Hoare, in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com... tu disais/you said:-

So would I, had I got 'em! (This was improv.) (When choosing ingredients for long-cooked stews or soups it is often recommended to take a leek)

Recall also Richelieu and his banquet for defeated foes from the Hanoverian war. A concerned aide reported only beef and root vegetables on hand. "Calm yourself, Rullières," said the Marshal, and dictated a menu of diverse courses from these basics. One of which by the way included, without explanation, root vegetables trimmed "into grotesque shapes on account of the Germans."

Yes, this was consciously a no-browning, minimalistic-method study.

(Gentil, M. le Chef.) 15 and 20 years ago when cooking many stews with aquaferous ingredients -- Gulasches with mixed sweet and hot peppers, for example -- I got the habit of reducing the liberated liquids. It takes some time, but in parallel with the stew cooking. (And it also goes without saying that most people will prefer a stew with concentrated juices to one where they are dilute, but thickened by artifice.)

I should have explained, barely tender -- suitable for more cooking in reheating. About three hours total. Still, this tenderness was faster than my usual experience even in the US -- this particular batch of meat.

All just applying Generally Accepted Stewing Principles -- GASP (a division of Generally Accepted Cooking Principles).

-- Max

Very interesting, this thread so far - thanks for the insights, Ian & Max.

Tis winter downunder, and very much the stew / casserole & red wine season.

I am very much a "seat of the pants" type of "slow" cook who more than often shuns convention.

After reading your ramblings, I now find that I am "old-hat & ain-stream" - who prefers to prepare my lamb or beef stew over a period of three-four days, oven cooked on low heat in a big cast-iron casserole.

Yep, mushrooms, celery and carrots, onion and garlic (oh yes, I include coarsely chopped red capsicum, seeds and all !!!) - meat always seared, but I tend not to trim any fat - it adds that little "animalism" which I love.

Luckily, fresh baby potatoes are an all year round phenomenon here in NZ - thus copious quantities of pratties and stew in a large bowl, consumed in front of a winters fire, sitting cross legged on a kiwi sheep skin rug (yes Ian, I can still manage this contortionism!), with for me, first choice of wine - a robust "gutsy" Australian Shiraz - lots of spice to marry with the stew.

OK - so the nearest snow is nearly 300km away!!!!!

Must confess, in my antipodean ignorance, that I never associated this style of cooking with Alsace - to me, more like Burgundy (again, from total ignorance of Burgundian cuisine)

-- st.helier

"st.helier" in news:bE_Sc.12726$ snipped-for-privacy@news.xtra.co.nz...

Yes, actually Burgundian was the style of stew I was improvising (shamelessly discarding tradition except general habit of Burgundians, given any excuse at all, to produce things stewed in red-wine sauces, slightly thickened and flavored with ham and herbs -- 1200 eggs at a time are prepared this way routinely by students, for example, at the Château du Clos de Vougeot).

Mention of Alsace was only part of a string of examples of stews cooked in popular beverages, for background. The original writer is clearly culpable here for being unclear about that. :-)

Quite right. Our old family recipe* for sauerkraut and smoked spareribs cooked in Chardonnay and served over bread dumplings is another. Not German; Slovak.

Tom S

  • Using Chardonnay was my idea. I think the original was made with either beer or water .

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