Places to visit in Chateauneuf-du-Papes

Sounds like the Ste Anne should have been a good match...

So, you can get addresses either from Hachette or the local tourist info in the centre of town, I won't bother to list here. Always a good idea to call ahead, of course.

Font de Michelle, very refined, fine whites. Cuvée Gonnet is done in oak but a great marriage. Very talented winemakers, and friendly.

Bosquet des Papes, old style, watch for vintage variation but can be classic.

Roger Perrin (route d'Orange), best deal in CdP, fabulous in a good year with terrific depth. If you're driving, bring a large container and buy as many litres as you can carry of declassified CdP "en vrac". (No direct relation to the Perrins of Beaucastel fame.)

Beaurenard, the Coulon family are still holding to tradition in spite of RP's crooning over their oaky cuvée amusingly named Boisrenard. Also good CdR and a Rasteau that holds its own in a good year.

Grand Tinel represents good value and classic style. Ask if they have any table wine going. (We used to get scads of this in the mid-90s for 12FF/bt, it drank like a 60FF CdP!)

La Nerthe has gotten pricey but still does well, nice spot too. Sadly I remember when they had just bought the place, and the prices hadn't changed yet.

Vieux Telegraphe is worth a visit, but bring the chequebook.

That's what occurs just now, I'm sure there are others I like that I haven't thought of... :)

Sadly Rayas requires a personal introduction, or they run you off with the dogs! (So rumour has it).

Given limited time I would not miss a visit to R. Perrin and Font de Michelle. Just hope the former never gets "discovered..."

cheers,

-E

Joe,

While I agree that Chateauneuf is quite commercial, there are still many producers that are delighted to take the time to present and discuss their wines. This is what Nils should seek out, and since he's an old hand I don't think he's likely to be seduced by the tourist traps.

Also, Gigondas, while IMO a terrific appellation, is not really the same kettle of fish; it's like, if someone asks for Cornas recommendations, I don't send them to St. Joseph! :)

Certainly in terms of natural beauty, the Gigondas/Vacqueyras (Dentelles) and Beaumes de Venise are far preferable. And there are many fine domaines, too. Just not the same...

-E

Emery Davis wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@loki.domain.org:

Absolutely, IIRC there are a few that require letters of introduction, there are some who are open and great and some . . . One of my favorites, from back when Gault Millau was a reliable food and lodging guide, was Chateau Fines Roches G-M said "Once you get by the chilly reception" (speaking now of the hotel, restaurant, I don't think they had a tasting room) We showed up looking for the restaurant, and found a deserted scary place then all of a sudden this little gnome popped up and regarded us with all of the charm of a rotweiller. We got to see the grounds and have a wonderful memory of atypical French reception, but wouldn't recommend the place. I later bought one of their wines for the memory, it too wasn't worth the effort ;-)

You got me there, mea culpa

I never meant to imply that, was regarding the relative joy of the experience. In Gigondas you are more likely to taste with the owner/vinter or at least a family member in CdP it may well be a high school age kid who knows little and cares less.

Emery Davis wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@loki.domain.org:

Of course, if I were able to drive down with a trailer equipped with a large plastic tank, I might well go with your suggestion re R. Perrin!

Funny you should mention this place. Adele and I spent 3 days on our honeymoon there, back in '87. There certainly was no tasting room, and what's more, in the (decent but no more) restaurant they actually dissed their own wine, suggesting that something else might be preferable! I seem to remember we tried a white that wasn't half bad. Funny, they now seem to be a bit of a rising star, although I've not tasted since the stay.

I don't so much remember the chill as the dust in the rooms. But also glorious walks over the galets, through the vines, with incredible heat radiating from the ground even though it was only May. []

Fair enough, of course. But for all of the commercialism there are still plenty of family run businesses in Chateauneuf.

Re you other post, for visiting R. Perrin, the largest available receptacle is needed, indeed! And there, you'll meet Mme, equipped with slippers and housedress. She will often give a bottle or two as a gift with your order, provide labels for the 30 l you intend to bottle later, and sell you a jar of her excellent raspberry jam, to boot! :)

cheers,

-E

"Ronin" wrote in news:2rLPf.70$ snipped-for-privacy@news.uswest.net:

Their house wine is truly the house wine because they make it in the family.