Prodittori Barbaresco 1989 Montestefano TN

Jan 06, 2004 5 Replies

Hello -



I've had a bottle of Prodittori Barbaresco 1989 Montestefano (Labeled No.



9063, if that's significant) in my cellar for nearly 10 years, and this afternoon, while cooking some Chicken Caccitore, I fancied I could hear it calling to me from the basement. So I went downstairs, and fetched the bottle, rinsed the dust off, and popped the cork.

After a moment's rest I poured a taste - rather thin and tannic, I thought, and I wondered if I had maybe waited too long. After a moment more though, as the bottle warmed from my rather cool cellar and breathed a bit, flavors of leather, tobacco, even a touch of asphalt and an almost smoky flavor developed. Fullness of flavor developed as the wine warmed and breathed to balance the rather substantial and austere tannins, and the tannins followed the palate down into a long dry finish. And at the very end of the finish, on the exhale, I could smell the slightest waft of the countryside in the hills of the Alta Langhe, where Barbaresco is made.



If someone else out there has another bottle of this in their cellar, I think you could safely wait another few years, since the tannins were nowhere close to being played out. While I didn't decant this wine, I feel it would have benefitted from being decanted, since the wine perceptibly improved as it sat in the glass in contact with the air. Also, this wine needs to be served at the proper temperature - if it's too cold it really closes up.



Katherine


"Katherine Wolfe" skrev i meddelandet news: snipped-for-privacy@enews2.newsguy.com...

Great TN! Must be wonderful to have near-15 year old bottles lying about in the cellar, singing siren´s songs for the unwary sailor ... ;) How do you do Chicken cacciatore?

Nils Gustaf

I'm not surprised the Montestefano could use more time. My notes from earlier this year on the regular (not single vineyard) 1989 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco: Nose of tar, flowers, and red fruit. Sweet raspberry fruit on the palate, some old leather, eath, and light cigarbox aromas gradually waft from the glass. Good acidity, and a surprising dose of tannins still present for a 14 yr old co-op Barbaresco.

I'd rank the Produttori del Barbaresco as one of the great co-ops of the world.

Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

I have the 89 Rabaja and the Asili in the cellar, and as you say, they are still tannic. With extended airing and with food, they do show well now, but there is no rush.

Heh, well, the Barbaresco has been singing siren's songs to me almost since I put it in the cellar, so I think I did well to leave it as long as I did! ;-)

How I did it yesterday was:

Dice one medium onion, a cup of celery, and of carrots. Saute that and a cut up chicken in olive oil in a Dutch Oven. Leave saute'ing while you bang around in the basement for 10 minutes or so, clambering over to the wine rack, and then extricating the bottle of wine.

Come back upstairs to the smell of browning vegetables and chicken, and urgently call your partner over to stir things while you wash the dust off the bottle and your hands. Add a few cloves of crushed garlic, saute for maybe half a minute, then add a can of tomato paste, and saute that until it just starts to cling to the bottom of the pan. I added two chopped zucchini (courgettes) here, I know that isn't canon, but they needed to be used, and they went fine.

Add a large can of chopped tomatoes. Add perhaps a half teaspoon of dried sage, bring everything to the boil, then reduce heat and simmer slowly for an hour or more uncovered, until very thick. Alternately, put the Dutch Oven into a moderate oven, covered loosely, for about the same amount of time.

Cube potatoes, toss with olive oil, sage, thyme, paprika, and garlic powder, and roast these at 400 degrees F for about a half hour, to serve with the chicken. Serve with a simple insalata mista with balsalmic vinegar and olive oil to round out the meal, with coffee and biscotti for dessert.

Still later, pat the empty-but-for-the-lees bottle of Barbaresco, and tell it that while it might have gone to fancier tables, there was no one who would have appreciated it any more - and post some tasting notes.

Katherine

It was a wonderful wine. What consistently surprises me about the Nebiollo wines I've had is how expressive of terroir they are, but in a very subtle, restrained way. I had a '96 Nebiollo Langhe a few years ago, and as it happens I had been driving around the hills of that area the autumn the grapes were picked. When I tasted the wine, just at the end of the finish, on the exhale, I could smell the same unique, almost smoky smell that those hills had at that time. The Barbaresco last night was the same way, but even more restrained, with just a faint echo of forest, earth, truffles, and nebbia.

Katherine

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