TN: Mostly CalCabs, with a Barbaresco chaser

May 09, 2005 0 Replies

Yesterday we headed to friends for an early dinner. The host is a CalCab man, and we tried several (his, and another guest's) as well as an Italian from me.


2001 Hayman & Hill Cabernet Sauvignon Hmm, not much to like here. Green-tinged fruit, and some unintegrated oak (or more likely oakchip). C+
2001 Beringer Knight's Valley Cabernet Sauvignon The '91-'93 Beringer KV were my "house cabs" years ago, but I thought they declined (as prices rose) in the mid-90s. This one is a bit better than some, a medium-bodied sweet-fruited CalCab. Dark plums and cassis, some vanilla from the oak. Tannins a little rough on the finish. OK. B


2001 Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon Best of the bunch. Lush almost-Merlot-y texture, deep dark fruit and some floral notes. A bit of chocolate and earth. Tannins smoother and riper than the Beringer's, not bad right now. B+



1999 Ca' Roma "Maria di Brun" Barbaresco Ron had made veal saltimbocca. My first choice would have been a big white, but knowing our hosts' tastes thought I'd go for a lighter red, a Chianti. But when I saw this in cellar, I thought I remembered that Maria (pictured on label) was a beloved mother or grandmother, so took it for Mother's Day instead. OK, so a bit much for saltimbocca. But with some air (double-decanted hour before we went over, and it sat open for 1-2 hours when we got there), it showed as a very nice Barbaresco. Bright but smooth raspberry and cherry flavors, tinged with some herb (mint?) and flowers. A little tar on the moderate finish. Good showing from a middling producer. B+


2002 Hess Cabernet Sauvignon Lighter than previous Cabs, this featured decent red fruit and some light oak notes. A bit short on finish. B- Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency



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