The Great Pig-Out

When a local Italian restaurant moved it's weekly roast pig event to a Sunday by special request, they needed to fill the quota for pork fanciers, and my friend Manuel, operater of a local French restaurant helped them with assorted wine agents, reviewers, and sots of note (including yours truly).

The plan was to bring a bottle of wine per couple and indulge in a multi-course pig-out. These are the notes from that swinefest.

1999 Quinta da Bacalhoa Cabernet - I know - sounds like Portuguese codfish, but it was indeed a fairly decent cab. Medium colour, medium body, good acidity and pleasant if not distinguished. Went alright with the antipasto.

1996 Elio Grasso Barolo 'Vigna Chiniera' - a middle weight Barolo of the early maturing style, this wine showed a light tarry nose with some roses, and was elegant and smooth, almost reminiscent of a Burgundy, with good terminal acidity.

1997 Leonetti Sangiovese - about this time, an adjoining group offered a taste of this, blind. Spice and cherries in the nose led us toward something with merlot, and we were suitably surprised when it was revealed. Soft and ready, and no clue that it was sangiovese. Personally, I think they should stick to merlot and cab - if I want and $50 US sangiovese, there are lots of traditional options.

1997 San Felice Poggio Rosso Chinati Classico Reserva - bright wine with a nose that wasn't very forthcoming for awhile. Quite high in both acid and tannin, which mask the fruit, it ended short and sharp. It may improve with age.

About this time, the 'entertainment' started. Now my idea of hell on Earth would be to be trapped with an accordion, played badly, with no way out. I have heard that some cruise ships approximate this experience. What should come out to entertain us, but a smiling Italian chap who alternated between and electric keyboard and a stomach Steinway, both played at such volume so as to interfere with conversation.

When asked for requests, we kept muttering "the Minute Waltz", hopefully. And then he started wandering about the room playing (badly!) his accordion, totally drowning out any possibility of discussion, as we looked at our butter knives wondering if there was any way we could use them to open our (or preferably his) veins to end the ordeal. Only the prospect of roast pork held us in our seats, although I was ready to bolt for it when he returned to the keyboard to host a thankfully short Karaoke interlude with a couple singing poorly and unintelligibly in Italian to each other. Mama mia!

The, finally, the pig arrived, on a large platform that was trundled about the room so that all could admire it, before being returned to the kitchen to be served up. We moved on to:

1998 Ch. Reynella Basket Pressed McLaren Vale Cabernet - lots of oak in the nose, with good depth. Dark, sweet and smooth in the mouth, although not as good as the shiraz. This wine still has some soft tannins, but I think it will come around in fairly short order.

1998 Ch. Vignelaure (Coteaux d'Aix en Provence) - a perennial good value, this vintage showed medium colour, not much in the nose and was over all a bit tight right now, with tannins winning over fruit, but that should change with some age.

1997 Batasiolo Barbaresco - this house gets a bad name for being a lightweight, but I have had quite a few very decent wines, notably the 1990 Barolos. I even bought some of this wine, and was not very pleased with how it is presently showing. lightweight and dilute, it lacks colour and fruit but has plenty of acidity. I don't see this one going anywhere good.

1998 Tradizione del Nonno Primitivo di Manduria -at 16% alcohol, this brute did a fine job of taming the pig, which when it was finally served was excellent. Warm ripe hot country nose, with sweetness to it, and lush fruit in the mouth, simple but interesting.

1994 Taurino Patriglione - a Sicilian version of a recioto, the 1988 of this was excellent and this one is about as good. Very ripe hot nose, with tar and cherry, quite full in the mouth and with good length.

I'm afraid that my musical sensibilities would not allow me to stay around after the main course, so I retreated to the car for some Mozart on the way home to soothe my accordion-tattered nerves.

Reply to
Bill Spohn
Loading thread data ...

In article , snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (Bill Spohn) writes a nice tale of wine, pork, and the dreaded accordion including:

More and more I find these similarities between Piemontese wines and Burgundies. This sounds nice. I think of Elio Grasso as one of the in-between producers- not the full-throttle oak of the real new-wavers, but more accessible (shorter maceration?) than the old-style when young.

acid and tannin,

I don't know this wine, but think San Felice's regular CC offers good value (their superTuscan I dislike). Sounds promising - the problem I have with many

97 Tuscans is the low-acidity.

Doesn't sound so great, maybe I need to try one of mine (think I only have two). I thought at release it offered good value (at about $22 it's one of the least expensive Barbarescos one might see)- another of those "in-between" producers, at time I thought it would be at its best maybe 2005-2008.

Ah, the accordion. In North America it's usually a bad joke, but I know some European musicians who are fond of it (once in Colorado a violinist friend of Betsy dragged us to a restaurant because it had the only acceptable accordionist he had heard in this country- but he was off that night, we left rather than listen to his hammy replacement, so I don't know if I would have appreciated). I actually have a CD of accordion music. Some friends spent some time in Poland, wanted to bring me back something. Knowing I liked Erik Satie, picked up a Satie CD. Only on the plane did they managed to decipher enough to realize to their horror it was Satie on the accordion (actually, kind of interesting).

Old viola joke: If you drop an accordion, a set of bagpipes and a viola off a 20-story building, which one lands first? .... Who cares?

thanks for the notes Bill.

Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

Reply to
Dale Williams

Another viola joke (ny daughter's):

Why are violists always standing out in the rain? ... Because they don't know when to come in and can't find the key.

Regards, Dean

Reply to
Dean Macinskas

Its curious how you, Dale, put together Piedmonteses wines and Burgundy. In the early 1990's I had a nice talk with Elio Altare who said he used Burgundy as his template in constucting his wine. We had a nice chat about DRC and Bize-Leroy. His English was good and I could understand winespeak Italian, although if I recall Chiara Boschis of E. Pira and Borgogno was with me at the time.. For a time, BTW, Angelo Gaja was importer in Italy of DRC wines.

Reply to
Joe Beppe Rosenberg

I thought I'd start a new thread heading, in case the viola jokes had drowned interest (my fault for starting, of course, my sister-in-law is a violist at Met and I can nver resist).

Bill , what did you think worked best with the roast pork? I'd like your (and others') opinions. With basic roast pork (or suckling pig) I tend to look towards lighter reds, though I've had success with richer whites too (especially if there's a fruity accompaniment). Let's get comments from the pork fanciers out there. Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

Reply to
Dale Williams

I don't eat a lot of pork and tend to lean toward red wine with any food if I can get away with it.

About a weekor so ago we had a few friends over on a sunny afternoon for potluck. There were many kinds of food and wine. One of the groups favorites was a Jamiesons Run 2000 SA Sauvignon Blanc. I had a glass. It was OK. Nice for a hot afrernoon, (cool, crisp, lime)

At the end there was a partial bottle left. About 300ml? I poured it in a 375ml bottle and stuck it in the fridge.

On Sunday past we had a pork roast with almost too much savoury. I was the only one wanting wine so I popped the cork out of the partial bottle of Jamiesons. I was immediately hit in the nose with lychee! Lots of lychee. Tasted it - lychee again. Couldn't believe this was the same wine from a week ago.

I found it to be delicious with the roast pork.

Myron

Reply to
Young Martle

I'm a little surprised at that, Joe, as I think of Altare (on scant evidence, mind you) as a very New School producer. Maybe on the template of Dominique Laurent and Dugat? :)

Seriously, he probably means vineyard techniques, shorter maceration, etc. as opposed to barrique use.

Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

Reply to
Dale Williams

snipped-for-privacy@aol.comdamnspam (Dale Williams) wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mb-m13.aol.com:

For me it really depneds upon how it is prepared, seasoned and what else is on the plate. But then you probably get tired of hearing that from me. It's always hard for me to ignore those details.

I think it's commonly percevied that Riesling and pork are on very friendly terms and this can work very well. I think other minerally whites with acidity will work, such as Gruner Veltliner, Pinot Gris, Loire Chenin or even an Alsatian Gewurztraminer. With the right dish, I also like a Rose Champagne.

But for most braised or roast pork where the dish is richer I tend to like a Tempranillo based wine or a Sangiovese based wine. If the dish is grilled or has a little smokiness to it, I tend to like riper styled Pinots. But I have also had some Nebbiolo based wines that worked well with smoke influenced pork dishes.

John

Reply to
John Gunn

Well we were talking about his inspiration, Altare is older and more mature than Giorgio Rivetti or Domenico Clerico and the other Barolo boyz of DeGrazia; I think he was talking conceptually, a thing(whets better Burgundy, Bordeaux or the Rhone) he and Enrico Scavino were discussing in Italian later that day at a dinner on my behalf. This dinner was used to organise some of the younger producers into a sort of loose consortium, so besides me and the Barolo boys, Valentino Migliorini was there as well as Aldo Conterno's nephew and the Currados of Vietti's son in law. It was like the greatest hits of the Langhe at one table, we were tasting DeGrazia's latest releases from Tuscany given to me in Firenze earlier in the trip. If I recall Parusso was there too also as well as a Grasso and a guy who used to be honcho of Produttori di Barbaresco who was trying to organise this consorzio who basically bogarted the dinner set up for me for his own and fascinating agenda. Too bad I couldn't understand too much even with Chiara translating.

There's a gossip part of this recollection which I will save for a private conversation but suffice it to say Chiara was the unmarried bella figura for many of these lusty married Italians.

Reply to
Joe Beppe Rosenberg

I was thinking about whites to start with - Viognier, Semillons and such.

Talked to my buddy who set it up - he's Portuguese and told me that in Portugal they drink quite hearty reds with roast pork.

We went through many different styles of wine and I'd have to agree that reds suited it best, and something with a bit of acidity, like the Italian wines that have been suggested, work well.

I think Tempranillo based wines, South African reds, some Chileans....the list goes on.

Reply to
Bill Spohn

^^^^^^^^

May I kindly ask for an explanation of this phrase?

My words ... ;-)

M.

Reply to
Michael Pronay
Reply to
Michael Pronay

Hi Joe:

Made famous by Lowell George and Little Feat!

So the co-op kind was interesting in modernizing? Maybe that's why you said he used to be head of Produttori di Barbaresco - pretty diehard traditionalists, they would proably have dumped him quick.

Keeping the gossip to yourself, tsk tsk. :)

Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

Reply to
Dale Williams

snipped-for-privacy@aol.comdamnspam (Dale Williams) wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mb-m24.aol.com:

snip

Ahh. So I saw the fine print and missed the large titles.

Then let me re-craft a response.

I think we should be looking for a rustic style of red with some substance to it (to help manage the fat content of the pork), but not one that is too fruit driven. The ones that come to mind are a Cornas or good Gigondas. This may also be a place to try a Spanish Tempranillo.

John

Reply to
John Gunn

Man's name was Giancarlo Montaldo if I recall, he left or was pushed out as winemaker/manager of Produttori shortly after I met him in 1985, his 82s were not as good as his processors 78s. He was working on enlisting the modernists as part of his organisation that evening and barely acknowledged my existence. It was a three ring circus kind of evening, with several agendas barely co-existing with each other. Chiara's suitor did his best to belittle me and my weight(think he thought I was the competition), the rest of the DeGrazia guys were trying to talk to me and Montaldo was pitching......

That's as candid as I guess.

traditionalists,

Reply to
Joe Beppe Rosenberg

Don't do much by way of suckling pig here in New Zealand - but are spoiled (if you know a hearty hunter) by being able to get wild pork, as well as farm raised.

The gamier wild meat is certainly robust enough for a red wine - either a fruity, mid weight Aussie shiraz or a Rioja.

I eat farm raised pork twice a week - usually bar-b-qued loin chops - or a roasted shoulder - both with apple sauce!

And with this, I am rather staid in my ways - a Trimbach Cuvee de ribeaupierre with a few years age (if I can find it) if I chose to splurge - or any full bodied NZ Gewurztraminer - with a hint of RS.

st.helier

Reply to
st.helier

... mah friend, pass it over to me ..."

Thank you.

M.

Reply to
Michael Pronay
Reply to
Michael Pronay

DrinksForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.