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TN: '00 Bourgogne, '95 CdP

Sunday I took Betsy's mom to airport, then returned home to follow Betsy's instructions re cooking some duck legs (she was playing). Recipe-following is not my forte, but I made it through a simple though very good recipe that Betsy has done before (Madeliene Kamman-season legs, slather with mustard, coat with breadcrumbs, drizzle with butter,

2 hours at 375F). I also did some green beans and potatoes with basil. Betsy came home, we had a nice dinner with a bottle (my last bottle?) of the 2000 Michel Lafarge Bourgogne. I'm a relentless experimenter, and almost never buy wines by the case except for an occasional ageable Bordeaux, but this was one of the exceptions. And I think this was my last bottle. Adn that makes me sad. Pretty cherry and raspberry fruit, with just a hint of bitterness to keep it interesting. Good acidity, mineral and floral notes. With air the earthy notes take wing. A simple Bourgogne, a non-herarlded vintage, take your shots, but this is a good wine. A-/B+

Tonight Betsy rewarded me for a big afternoon of car-haggling by making a meatloaf recipe I had sent her (Sunset magazine from years ago, a lamb and feta meatloaf). Very good, served with brown rice,red chard, and the 1995 Berard P & F "Cuvee Prestige" Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Tight at first, then warm ripe red fruit and a little earth appear as it gets some air. Ends up a pleasant round red wine, but doesn't show much complexity or depth. Not flawed, tired, or over the hill, just a tad dull. B-

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

Reply to
DaleW
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That seems awfully hot for duck legs. Were they tender?

Wow, Dale. I consider myself pretty well versed in the wines of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, but I must confess to complete ignorance regarding this producer. Who imports it? The wines of '95 are big and backward. I'm still waiting on mine while drinking my '94s, '89s and '90s.

Mark Lipton

Reply to
Mark Lipton

I can concur with the temp for cooking as I have made the same recipe many times now with great results every time. I also have never heard of this producer.

Reply to
Lawrence Leichtman

As Larry L says, this recipe is pretty good. Duck isn't fall-apart confitish, but not tough at all. Our only modifications are we use panko, cover pan, and take legs out of pans and put on cookie sheet for

5 minutes broiling at end. Great recipe when you want duck in 2 hrs, and when you can't spend lots of time.

I've had a couple of Berard Pere & Fils before. I'll look at importer when I get home (I think a German name on West Coast!).

While I'm not a Gilman declaring half of the '95s as dying, I've had more than one disappointing one (and not just closed). All I have left is Beaucastel, and not looking for more.

Reply to
DaleW

'95 in CdP is certainly a paradoxical year. Mine never really seemed to close down, where others report complete hibernation.

Within the last month we had a bunch of 95s, from Beaurenard, Font de Michelle, Roger Perrin. Took no notes (entertaining) but all seem in excellent shape from what I can tell.

Go figure...

-E

Reply to
Emery Davis

Mark, importer is W.Wg. Best Weinkellerei in San Diego.

Emery, I have found some reputable '95s too ripe for my tastes, and often one-dimensional. No real big boys- things like Chapoutier Le Bernardine. I'm not totally down on the vintage. But John Gilman had an interesting article in a "View From the Cellar" about Southern Rhones, where he kind of pegged '95 as the year he felt things went the wrong way ("Parkerization", though he didn't use the term) in the Southern Rhone . Lots of makers going for riper picking and concentrating a bit much on the luxury cuvees. I'm a bit more tolerant than John of modernistic tendencies, but I do take seriously his doubts re many post

1990-CdPs having the longevity of earlier wines from the appellation. There's nobody who I know who writes with more knowledge than Gilman (disclaimer, I have dinner/wines with John once a month or so).
Reply to
DaleW

PS I know you enjoy Loire reds, too. The 2005 Filliatreau La Grand Vignolle was great tonight, and a fine value at $14!

Reply to
DaleW
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Parkerization has been a powerful temptation indeed in CdP. One has only to look at the prices now commanded by the Parker favorites to understand the lure. There have been several reactions to this: some that have nothing to lose I think have gone down that path; some have released a cuvée, like Beaurenard, which is specifically tailored to the Parker model; others like Roger Perrin won't change their style for anyone.

CdP had the advantage of being a fairly expensive -- if not by current standards -- wine on average, perhaps 60 - 100 FF/bt. So it was a sizable risk for the successful producers to switch everything over to the Parker model, because they already had the success of a client base (not US) and high profits by domestic French standards. So, I certainly don't disagree with John generally but do think that many have avoided the problem in CdP. Still as I said the 95s never shut down much for me, so...

In the Southern Rhone in general, though, Parker was making a huge amount of noise in the early 90s, and many of the good villages vin de garde were still selling in the 20-30 FF range. For these guys, looking at the US and even UK market, the temptation for many was too strong not to gamble.

I feel strongly that by any measure he has had a very negative impact on the larger industry in the southern Rhone. French wines can't compete with the new world on a one to one basis -- costs are too high -- so without retaining typicity there aren't many advantages.

-E

Reply to
Emery Davis

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