TN: 1986 Trevallon

Jul 06, 2008 11 Replies

This bottle (the last) was in good condition with a high fill. Marked "Les Baux" AOC Coteaux d'Aix en Provence. 12% alcohol, surely a rarity now. The label says Imported by Ideal Wine Medford Ma (printed on the label, don't know if they were the only importer then) and as I recall it was quite expensive, perhaps $15 US in '89. IIRC I bought this from Marty's Liquor in Newton (was living in Watertown at the time).



An excellent cork, good dark color but getting a little brickish. The nose is huge, with black fruits, garrigue, spice. In mouth a great balance, fully mature with plums and black cherry, tar and tons of liquorish, saddle leather. Strangely Bordeaux-like. Very good length. If any fault could be found, perhaps a little too low acid for my tastes.



As the meal, simple rare roast beef with mashed potatoes and fresh picked string beans, went on, the wine fell apart a little: shortened up, started showing a little bell pepper on the front etc. Still pleasurable but clearly showing age.



We didn't decant or let breath. A delicious bottle, but if you're lucky enough to have some, drink up.


Thanks for the notes. Just one question, what does garrigue smell like? Isn't it a bush?

Garrigue is a term for the herbs that grow wild in coastal Provence. Lavendar, sage, wild thyme and rosemary are the principal components. If you walk along the Mediterranean coast of France, you'll encounter these plants growing in the arid limestone soils and on hot summer days their scent is quite evident.

Mark Lipton

You are quite right. The limestone soil is the key differentiating factor between "garrigue" (Languedoc, Provence) and the slightly different flora found in the "maquis" (Corsica) with its characteristic acid silica soils.

It really is a very evocative scent. You can practically feel the sun on your neck...

For the record, and as Mike no doubt knows, "maquis" refers to any backwoods that is wild. Further, les maquis (or maquisards) is used to refer to a guerrilla group (e.g. the farc) living in the backwoods. (I've never heard maquis as a scent descriptive, but there's lots I haven't heard...)

Here there is some justified pride in WWII resistance, notably by the renowned Maquis de Tanville (next village over) or the Maquis du Bois de l'Eveque, the very forest that surrounds our house.

Some interesting information about these maquis can be found at

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in French but easily translatable by google etc.

I often think of the Maire of Tanville, shot for his silence and loyalty, when some ignorant idiot starts on about surrender monkeys. :(

-E

Emery Davis wrote: > For the record, and as Mike no doubt knows, "maquis" refers to any

Actually refers to a certain type of mediterranean wilderness... in Italian the word is "macchia mediterranea", they specify Med... I suppose anyt place that can harbour guerillas will do :-)

Emery, Is this the Cab/Syrah blend? I haven't had a wine that old from Aix but I remember drinking a few bottles of Cabernet from AOC Var made by Americans no less that were quite good.

More or less a bouquet garni. Graham

It is a wine with a large Cab component, which disqualifies it from the appellation Les Baux (not Aix...) despite Trevallon having more or less created the reputation of Les Baux...

I have some 96 also and the las tbottle confirms what Emery said, over its peak and not getting any better. Aeration for several hours only makes it worse.

It is cabernet/syrah. As Mike says certainly a large cabernet part, I'm guessing at least 1/2, but I don't know the actual blend.

Another provencale wine rumored to live forever is Richaume. (I think Parker said it would go 30 years). I had an '85 in 2001, it was well past peak, more so than the Trevallon.

So they make wine in the Var? :)

-E

Trevallon and Richaume are not in the Var, they are in the Bouches du Rhône. You get much longer lasting wines in the Var: Bandol.

:-)

But not the part of the Bouches du Rhône that was renamed Costières de Nîmes?

Mark Lipton

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