TN: 1995 Bordeaux in NYC

OK, so I've been part of the "'95s are so cranky- are they ever going to co me out of their shell" crowd for a while. So when we were planning a 1995s at 20 dinner I had a little trepidation. Then recently a pretty nice Calon Segur made me feel more hopeful. Our group met in the nice downstairs room at Le Philosophe on Bond St (Noho I guess?). With some gougeres we enjoyed the NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Rose Champagne. Full, zesty, with cherry and c itrus, very enjoyable. B+
Then on to the 1995 reds (I've tried to note any prep, from memory):
1995 Ch. Haut Bailly (double-decanted that afternoon) Nice way to start. Cassis fruit tinged with mint and earth, nice fruit, bal anced acids, B+
I had frogs legs (needed a zippier presentation, I regretted not ordering t he trotter with flageolets)
St. Emilion Flight
1995 Ch. Magdelaine (double-decanted that afternoon) Lean and elegant, classic Magdelaine, tobacco and herbs over redder fruit. I think this, Barton, and Cos were ones with biggest diverging opinions. A-
1995 Ch. Angelus (double-decanted that afternoon) I really found this mute and tight at first, really restrained though not r eally tough. But with air it got a cocoa/mocha thing going and lusher fruit , I quite liked at end. I put B- down originally, changed to B+
St Julien Flight
1995 Ch. Leoville Barton (double-decanted that morning) B This was to me one of the tightest wines of the night, initially with a met allic note to it, though that faded and I liked better at end. B
1995 Ch. Leoville las Cases (Pop'n'Pour) Young but quite nice, cocoa powder and black fruits. B+/A-
1995 Ch. Leoville Poyferre (PnP) I thought this the most open of the flight. Ripe cassis, some tobacco, tann ins in background. B+/A-
I had a nice flatiron steak with Bordelaise sauce.
First Pauillac Flight
1995 Ch. Grand Puy Lacoste (double-decanted that afternoon) Sweet and open, plenty of fruit, distinct cigarbox notes, drinking well wit h long future. A-/B+
1995 Ch. Lynch Bages (PnP)B/B- Tight and a touch tough, fruit is restrained, maybe just hiding but not giv ing a lot. B-/B
1995 Ch. Pichon Baron (double-decanted that afternoon) Blackcurrant, graphite, tangy. A-/B+
We got a cheese course so we wouldn't taste these without. A French goat ch eese I didn't know, Leonora from Spain, and Tumbleweed from Pennsylvania (i nitial waiter when asked said it was from France- "it is a mixture of Gouda and Chantal, and those are both French cheeses"- our main waiter said it w as a cheddar/chantal cross)
Pauillacs and one St Estephe 1995 Ch. Cos d'Estournel (PnP) I don't know what to say about this wine- some liked, but I thought thin fr uit, tough, a weird green olive meets funk, and somewhat clipped. The only wine that if I served at dinner for my wife I would have drawn a replacemen t. C+
1995 Ch. Mouton Rothschild (double-decanted that morning) Lovely, full and exotic, Mushrooms and spice over good cassis fruit. I'm no t historically a big Mouton fan but this is really good. A-
1995 Ch. Pichon Lalande (PnP, seepage/soaked cork under capsule) I think I ran out of steam or just talked to much by this point, didn't wri te anything but grade. But this didn't show to me as damaged, quite good, j ust tight. B+/B
There were assorted dessert, and also a 375 ml of 2005 Ch. Caillou that wai ter very generously brought out. I dislike tiny dessert glasses, didn't all ow much on nose, this could use a bit more acid but nice flavors.
We did our usual voting- every gets 6 pts to award (no more than 3 per wine ). Either someone forgot a 3rd place vote or I missed one point. Mouton 13 pts GPL 9 LLC 7 Haut-Bailly 7 Magdelaine 6 Pichon Baron 2 Leo Barton 2 Poyferre 1
Fun night. Pretty much everything showed as well or better than I expected except the Cos and Lynch. Much more accessible and less grumpy than my expe ctations.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a p arty where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivi ty, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
Reply to
DaleW
come out of their shell" crowd for a while. So when we were planning a 1995 s at 20 dinner I had a little trepidation. Then recently a pretty nice Calo n Segur made me feel more hopeful. Our group met in the nice downstairs roo m at Le Philosophe on Bond St (Noho I guess?). With some gougeres we enjoye d the NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Rose Champagne. Full, zesty, with cherry and citrus, very enjoyable. B+
alanced acids,
the trotter with flageolets)
. I think this, Barton, and Cos were ones with biggest diverging opinions. A-
really tough. But with air it got a cocoa/mocha thing going and lusher fru it, I quite liked at end. I put B- down originally, changed to B+
etallic note to it, though that faded and I liked better at end. B
nnins in background. B+/A-
ith long future. A-/B+
iving a lot. B-/B
cheese I didn't know, Leonora from Spain, and Tumbleweed from Pennsylvania (initial waiter when asked said it was from France- "it is a mixture of Gou da and Chantal, and those are both French cheeses"- our main waiter said it was a cheddar/chantal cross)
fruit, tough, a weird green olive meets funk, and somewhat clipped. The onl y wine that if I served at dinner for my wife I would have drawn a replacem ent. C+
not historically a big Mouton fan but this is really good. A-
rite anything but grade. But this didn't show to me as damaged, quite good, just tight. B+/B
aiter very generously brought out. I dislike tiny dessert glasses, didn't a llow much on nose, this could use a bit more acid but nice flavors.
ne). Either someone forgot a 3rd place vote or I missed one point.
d except the Cos and Lynch. Much more accessible and less grumpy than my ex pectations.
e, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objecti vity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
Good to see that '95 is coming out of its shell. Had 4 of these last year a nd all were still tight even after double decanting. Especially good becaus e I have a 3 pack of Las Cases, Magdelaine, Baron and Lallande.
Reply to
lleichtman

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