TN: 1998 wines at Balvanera (Rhone, Bdx, Burg, Lebanon)

A small group met at Balvanera Tues, theme was “1998 from Anywhere.” While we gathered we ordered some boquerones, octopus, and bacalau, and enjoyed the NV (I think ‘17 base) Chartogne-Taillet “Heurtebise” Blanc de Blancs. Smoky, with green apple and Bosc pear, orange peel, and an elegant mousse. A-/B+

Once everyone was there we ordered more bacalau, octopus, arancini. Later we got skirt steak, ribeye, fries, carrots, mushrooms. Red wines were blind

1998 # 1 -clearly Burgundy, but I was guessing Volnay. Sweet fruit, lighter body, surprised when heard it’s Gevrey and especially CSJ. Gary says he gets from his wife so I guessed producer, but didn’t really have the big oak signature I’d expect from DL. 1998 Dominique Laurent Clos St Jacques Gevrey Chambertin 1er. B/B+

1998 # 2 -this was my big whiff of the night, I (and others) thought a big Cab based Super T. Black fruit, toasty oak, moderate acids, ok length. 1998 Ch. Pape-Clement B

1998 # 5 (yes, served out of numerical order) - we got Burgundy, but not appellation (I guessed Pommard). Big, powerful, spicy, but balanced and with some elegance, long leathery finish 1998 Meo-Camuzet Corton Clos Rognet A-

Next 2 were tasted together and we got to CdP fast, but struggled on producers.

1998 # 3 -some brett, but within my tolerance, bright with pretty cherry fruit, on lighter weight side of CdP, nice. 1998 Pegau Reservees Chateauneuf-du-Pape B+

1998 # 4 roasted and ponderous, light cheesy note, not a fan. Very disappointed when revealed.

1998 Ch. Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape C+

1998 # 6 was pretty sure mine so no guessing, everyone went to RB Bordeaux, but first guesses were St Emilion (Magdelaine). Chris guessed VCC, so he got Certan right. Lighter than some ‘98 RBs, cassis and cocoa, easy tannins, moderate acids. B+/A-

1998 Ch. Certan de May (this was my backup bottle, when I double-decanted that afternoon, 1998 L’Evangile was corked)

1998 # 7- slightly lifted nose, I thought of Rioja, but then some barnyard kicked in and I guessed CdP. A bit sharp, but some earth and cigarbox, I liked more than most.

1998 Ch. Musar B/B+

1998 # 8 young, big, tannic, lots of power here but not much charm. Some new oak, I was thinking CaliCab. Oops.

1998 Ch. Leoville Las Cases B-

Fun night with fun group Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

Reply to
dalewilli...
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I'd heard that he'd dialed back the "200% oak" treatment, but I have no idea when that shift was supposed to have occurred or to what extent. I'm always a bit distrustful of people who tell me that "the oak doesn't show" as I'm pretty quercophobic (though as you know I do love Dujac).

I had that Pegau on release and have gone through my stash of 3 bottles. It started out life big, thick and tannic, almost like drinking black coffee. The bottles I've opened have ranged from pristine to Brett bombs. Shame about that Beaucastel. My bottles have been superb.

Sounds like a fun night. Thanks for posting those notes, Dale!

Mark Lipton

Reply to
Mark Lipton

I think this was in the 200% era, but unsure if he did every wine. I didn't get a lot of oak, but I certainly have on some other DL wines

Happy surprise re Pegau, sad surprise re Beaucastel for me. But drank my lone bottle years ago

Reply to
dalewilli...

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