TN: '90 Gigondas, '03 Chilean, '05 rosado

Jul 17, 2006 4 Replies

Friday Betsy made BBQ chicken, I was opening an Edmunds St John wine when I realized it was Bastille Day. Oops, has to be French, so grabbed the 1990 Domaine des Espiers Gigondas. OK, this is really pushing it, as I opened I realized fairly good chance it was gone, but a good '90 Cayron that Arv had brought to Django last year gave me hope. This Gigondas was warm and round, with sweet red berry fruit, a little bit of herbs, and a hint of sun-baked earth. No maderization or pruniness, but not exactly complex either. I'm not sure the years have added much to the totality of this wine, but while not great it was reasonably lively. Good showing for 16 year old Gigondas. B



Saturday I had a speech and Betsy was playing, so we had an early dinner of coffee-rubbed dry-aged Porterhouse, grilled squash, and salad. I opened a host gift that had been around for a month or so, the



2003 Terra Noble Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (Colchagua Valley). Sweet, vanillin, and anonymous, could have used a bit more grip to stand up to the steak. Clean and unflawed, but not interesting. B-/C+

Last night we slow-cooked some pork spare ribs on the grill, then basted with sauce for last couple minutes. Served with a Napa slaw, orzo/feta salad, and the 2005 Chivite "Gran Fuedo" rosé. Lighter bodied rosé with a refreshing acidity, bright red fruit, and a little spicy/herby note. Good QPR. B/B+



Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.



This has always puzzled me - how is it that wine connoisseurs can leave a bottle in the cellar for so long? I tend to drink mine too young, perhaps, but it's because these bottles are constantly saying "drink me" (else I wouldn't have bought them in the first place :)

Jose

The answer is critical mass. If your cellar has enough bottles, and you continue buying every year -- some for early drinking, some to lay down for short term (5 years say) some for long term -- you will always have an age range of wines to choose from.

To my tastes the good '90 Gigondas is at just about perfect age...

-E

Cayron is one of my favorite Gigondas - along with Montmirail and La Garrigue. But I'm still not convinced of the aging character of Grenache dominated wines. Don;t know what the experts say, but I suspect that 5 to 10 years is the optimum for most cuvees. Sounds like this one you had held up pretty well.

Friday Betsy made BBQ chicken, I was opening an Edmunds St John wine when I realized it was Bastille Day. Oops, has to be French, so grabbed the 1990 Domaine des Espiers Gigondas. OK, this is really pushing it, as I opened I realized fairly good chance it was gone, but a good '90 Cayron that Arv had brought to Django last year gave me hope. This Gigondas was warm and round, with sweet red berry fruit, a little bit of herbs, and a hint of sun-baked earth. No maderization or pruniness, but not exactly complex either. I'm not sure the years have added much to the totality of this wine, but while not great it was reasonably lively. Good showing for 16 year old Gigondas. B

Salut/Hi Jose,

le/on Mon, 17 Jul 2006 17:55:13 GMT, tu disais/you said:-

Patience & poverty overcoming greed and curiosity, and a good selection of other wines that are ready.

For an example, ever since he started making it, I've been buying Luc de Conti's red Bergerac Moulin des Dames.

I've got the '94, '95 (finished the '96 which was made to drink younger) '98, '99, '00 and '02 and will be getting the '05. Why drink the 2000 when the '95 is ready, except for impatience or curiosity. Sample one to see how it's coming, of course, or to put on a parallel with David Fourtout's Le Vin des Verdots, and the Comte de Bosredon's Cuvée speciale of the same year, but that would still be infanticide, and I'm not rich enough to practice that.

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