TN: '99 Allegrini "La Grola"

Opened with a simple dinner of roast chicken with broccoli:

nose: initially, a big whack of cherry liqueur, almost medicinal, later growing more berryish and even later developing a hint of tarriness

palate: soft entry, medium body, cherry liqueur, fine grained tannins, a bit thin in the midpalate and a shockingly low acidity in the finish

This wine, despite coming from the estate vineyards of Allegrini, entirely inside of the boundaries of Valpolicella, is labeled an IGT because of Allegrini's decision to not include Molinara in the encepagement (as required for DOC labeling) and instead add such non-traditional varieties as Syrah and Sangiovese. In this year, the actual blend was 70% Corvina, 15% Rondinella, 10% Syrah and 5% Sangiovese. Add to that its elevage in French Oak and what you get is a quite modern wine somewhat in the Valpolicella mold.

My own take is that this wine is way too modern for my tastes, especially since I love the rusticity of a good Valpolicella Classico and the controlled power of Ripassos and Amarones. It went well enough with our dinner, but ultimately was a bit lacking.

Mark Lipton