TN: '99 Cupa Numismae

Feb 23, 2004 2 Replies

Opened on Sat. to accompany this year's Fête de Cassoulet* (this version created with flageolet beans, homemade goose confit and garlic sausage in addition to the other meats), trying simultaneously for a good match and a geographical consistency (my oldest Montus is from '99 and too young to flirt with):


1999 Ch. La Roque 'Cupa Numismae' Pic St.-Loup color: inky, dark red-purple with dark garnet edges nose: cedar, tar, black licorice palate: smooth on entry, with a big whack of blackberryish fruit, tarriness and soft tannins, mouthfilling body and a long, full finish

Still a young wine with backbone enough for several years of development ahead. It's a 60/40 Syrah/Mourvedre blend with an emphasis more on power and fruit than complexity. This bottle was hand-carried back from the Chateau and showed signs of mild heat damage, so my notes should be viewed as a baseline for what this wine might achieve. Highly recommended, and a great match with the cassoulet!



Mark Lipton


*Only one postprandial casualty this year, as opposed to 3 the year before (no doubt due to roughly half the per capita consumption of the stuff this year as opposed to last year's rash gluttony).

I am new to this idea of "Fête de Cassoulet." Dangereuse!

I think it was Paula Wolfert's related book that described an office door in southwest France with the enigmatic message -- "Closed on account of Cassoulet" -- and many difficult, long nights she experienced after tasting local versions. The life of the food writer is not always easy. Possibly at that time (1980s) she was unaware of Beano (glorious stuff). I have had just a little of Wolfert's experience. I shall never forget the aftereffects of a delicious-_tasting_ experimental batch begun with dried chickpeas and strong spices. An experiment gone horribly wrong ...

Max, as a Berkeley ex-pat living in the frozen Midwest, I use the cold months as an excuse to indulge in that glorious winter dish. Dangereuese, indeed!

That particular story has a long provenance. MFK Fisher relates it in her 1968 Time/Life cookbook "The Cooking of Provincial France." AFAIK, it comes from Prosper Montagné who relates the tale of the cobbler's shop in Carcassone with the front doorknob removed and sign saying "closed on account of cassoulet in oven." Obviously, that version changes the meaning of the sign somewhat...

ROFL!! Ah, the burden of the culinary scientist! ;-)

Mark Lipton

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