Chapoutier, Hermitage (blanc), 'Chante Alouette', 1994 A pretty glistening, brassy gold with slight bronze. Hazlenuts and slight petrol quality on the nose. Inside, this reveals fresh boiled peanut, a little oxidative, and a slight buttered-popcorn note, along with lemon oil. There's a feeling of cement about this wine, perhaps coming from the weighty viscosity I sense. A little austere, but balanced in its way.
13.8% alcohol. B+ Additional comments: my notes never sound as if I enjoy these wines, but that couldn't be farther from the truth. Like I've said before about white Rhones, you either like them or you don't. There is not a lot of middle ground with these wines. Everybody will say the best white Hermitage is made by Chave, but there is a place in the pantheon for these more austere examples (that age well) that Chapoutier makes as well. I enjoy them both.Chateau Rausan-Segla, Margaux, 1988 Color still deeply black cherry. Lots of typical old Bordeaux scents: cedar, licorice, tobacco. This is medium-bodied, with a smooth redcurrant finish that is slightly short, but pleasant. Some unripe tannins clamp down a little on the finish. Probably in a good zone for drinking now. B-B+
Domaine Ostertag, Riesling 'Heisenberg', 1996 Oh-oh: brownish gold in color. Dried straw flowers, some petrol, and apple cidre pomice for aromas. There is still some baked apple-cookie dough among the oxidixed pear eau-de-vie flavors, but this is fading fast from view, and should have been drunk about 2 years ago. First had this in the late '90s and it showed much better. B
Castello di Fonterutoli (Mazzei), Toscana IGT, 'Siepi', 1996 Very dark black red. Deep and dark aromas of black cherries, plums, menthol and dried soy sauce. Black cherry again on the palate, cassis and an Italian tomato paste feel to the end. Still assertive tannins suggest this can be cellared further. B+/A- Notes: a wine I have only bought on clearence before, this seems to be an IGT that works, although I feel the merlot component takes over (making the wine a bit flatish) and I'd like to see more sangiovese in the blend.
Hirsch, Zobinger Gaisberg, Riesling, 'alte reben', 1998 Not very typically riesling, and less so than a bottle tasted back in 2001. This has tropical aromas with tangerine, and flavors of ripe year Loire sauvignon blanc, with mineral loquat and lime ester, and a bright acid finish. Nothing here says 'riesling' to me. Still, well made. B+
Alain Graillot, Crozes-Hermitage, 2002 A wine that should be on closeout, instead of the $22 I paid for it. But, I wanted to try a 2002 Rhone. The color is still primary purple soaked red. There's not much in the nose beyond some tar and the rubber of new Converse sneakers. Very primary and youthful, full of smoky acids, sour plums...very peppery. This could integrate better with 1-2 years shelving, but beyond that would be a gamble, since the fruit is light and tart. Feels like a simple Cotes-du-Rhone instead of a Crozes, but does get better after a couple of days in the fridge. B
Chateau St. Pierre, St. Julien, 1996 Deep red, smoky cedar. Plenty of rough-hewn tobacco, dirty cedar, and chunky blackcurrant. Very rustic and meaty. B-B+