TN Ridge Montebello 1990

The wine is Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains Monte Bello 1990. It contains

85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10 % Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, and has 13.5% alcohol by volume. It has been stored properly since release, had a good cork, and had a fill about half way up the neck. The back label claimed it could be drunk, but that it was expected to evolve over about 20 years. The translation of this, at least for me for a Ridge wine, means that it will have some initial fruit, then a dumb period lasting up to at least 10 years, and then slowly improving until it is perhaps 20 or many years more old. It may then hold fairly well many more years after that. And this is what appears to be happening. The color is still extremely deep with little evidence of age. There is enough acid. The tannins are beginning to resolve but a few more years likely are needed to smooth the tannins more. The cork face in contact with the wine was covered with large tartrate crystals that were nearly black from the deep pigment of the wine. The wine had very intense cassis and dark plum-like fruit with some mixed spice. This is the first bottle that I have opened. I think I will not open another bottle of the remaining four for about five more years. I tend to think of the best CS dominated wine from Ridge Montebello as the Latour of California. It can be big and slow to evolve, but it is well worth the wait.
Reply to
cwdjrxyz
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Reply to
AxisOfBeagles

Nice notes, cwdjr. Thanks! I haven't had the '90, but some mid-'80s examples have been memorable. Your parallel to Latour is an apt one. Monte Bello develops at a glacial pace, but with sufficient age takes on great elegance and character. Unlike Ch. Montelena and Dunn's Howell Mountain, Monte Bello does actually improve with bottle age. It's probably my favorite CalCab these days.

Mark Lipton

Reply to
Mark Lipton

Reply to
Richard Neidich
Reply to
Lawrence Leichtman

Bill, Let me clarify: it's not that Montelena doesn't age -- far from it. But I'm not convinced that it actually develops tertiary characteristics with bottle aging. I too have had that '87, as well as the '78, in recent years. They are virtually immobile wines: they soften, they become more forward than in their formidable youths, but will they ever develop the bouquet of a classed growth Bdx? I'm not convinced that they will. Monte Bello, OTOH, has convinced me that it can, and will.

Randy Dunn's wines are another story. The Howell Mtn is about as backward a Cabernet as I can find (some of Ken Burnap's early efforts may give it run for its money, though). Will they ever reach full maturity? But... a '90 Napa opened last year was singing, full of tertiary aromas and lovely to drink. So, maybe all that's needed is patience and the genetic wherewithal to live to 120 to enjoy those Howell Mtns ;-)

Mark Lipton

Reply to
Mark Lipton

That is cause you live in the south!!!

:-(

Reply to
Richard Neidich

One clarification - Monte Bello is not a Napa vineyard. It's in the Santa Cruz Mountains.

And why is that important, you might ask (other my tendency to pedantics) - because California has a relatively hot climate for Cabs; meaning, they tend to be higher in sugar and 'fruit', and lower in acid, than their Bordeaux cousins, at harvest. Which means they won't have the same aging characteristics.

Whereas the SCM has a relatively cooler climate, particularly in the late season, alowing for a different acid / phenolic profile at harvest. Resulting in a different aging character in the wine.

Add to that the inherent different flavor profile of the Monte Bello wines. Ridge is understandaby proud of the limestone base under the vineyard, more reminiscent of Burgundy than anywhere else, and you have a different 'terroir' than most other Cal wines. (As I understand, these vines are dry farmed - the decomposing rock soil allows for deep, deep rooting vines).

I guess I'm pointing this out because although I enjoy Napa Cabs, I still believe that the coastal mountains may be the superior climate / terroir for California Cabs / Cab blends.

Reply to
AxisOfBeagles

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