Mark Lipton was in town, and we were thrilled when he agreed to trek to Westchester for dinner Sunday. Jeff Grossman also agreed to make the trip, and we invited Alex and Hilary to round out table. Fortuitously, A & H were going to a play a block from Mark's hotel, so gave them a ride up. The basset hound was delighted to see everyone, and we settled down to pop lots of corks. Betsy was hard at work on dinner, I handled the appetizers and first sitdown course.
1996 Chidaine “Almendra” Montlouis Brut The starter ( with Gabrielle Hamilton's pickled shrimp and apple/trout/ horseradish bites). Big, deep, fairly subdued fizz, apple and bread with some mineral notes. Mark pointed out that it didn't really scream Chenin Blanc, true but I enjoyed a lot. B+
We went with a few whites as we waited for Hilary who had left to do some kid ferrying, and then sat down for a starter of white bean puree with smoked oyster and radish.
2006 Courier Sauvignon Blanc I opened this because the winemaker used to post on AFW, where I first met Mark. Big, dense, not very SB typical, this is really interesting, but at the moment not so thrilling. B-
2004 F. Cotat “Culs de Beaujeu” Sancerre Hey, it's Cotat, that means I like it. B+/A-
1989 Trimbach "Cuvee Frederic Emile Vendange Tardive" Riesling Nice showing, dry but with rich sweet fruit, long and precise. A-/A - my WOTN
We moved to reds with Betsy's bouef en croute, a vegetable tian a la Alain Ducasse, and green beans with fromage blanc (Betsy was chagrined to realize later she forgot the toasted hazelnuts).
1979 Domaine De Chevalier (Graves) A good showing, but then this always seems to show well A-/B+
2002 Joseph Swan Syrah Mark said someone declared this OTH, but seemed young and a bit coiled to me. I'm a fan of Swan's PNs, first Syrah I remember trying, thanks Mark! B/B+
1999 Clape Cornas Jeff brought this, what a nice treat. Even tighter, you can sense the quality but currently quite stern, a B for now, but this could soar easily into A range
1988 Montevertine Riserva With a lot of wines the only red I revisited twice, for me this is a pointe, just lovely deep Sangioves, what most Brunellos merely aspire towards. A-
1983 Morot "Teurons" Beaune 1er I'm always a little concerned with '83s, but this was fine. Sweet good fruit, holding nicely, no sign of rot, though not most complex wine. B/ B+
1988 Jadot "Clos des Corvees" Nuits St. Georges 1er Jeff had just said that I seemed to know how to use Ah So when I tried on this and cork slid right in. We decanted through filter, loose cork or not a solid wine. Some tannin, dark fruit, quite masculine. B
1995 Fourrier "Clos St. Jacques" Gevrey-Chambertin 1er When opened this seemed cranky, midbodied, dominated by unripe tannins. Mark thought it got better, and indeed it improved, but never seemed that giving to me. But by the end a B
With cheeses (good Ossau Iraty, Stilton, ok camembert, dying Muenster) and Betsy's lemon tart, a couple of half bottles:
1997 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardives Moderately sweet, but seemed a little short, I've definitely had better bottles of this . B-
2004 Pfeffingen "Ungsteiner Herrenberg" Riesling Beerenauslese (Pfalz) - good acidity, lots of botrytis, but a bitter edge. B
Overall, a pretty good wine night- nothing cooked, corked, or over the hill, and even my least favorites were at least interesting. However, more importantly the company was good and lively. Lucy was a little whiney when she finished her marrow bone, but folks bore it in good humor. Nice night with nice people.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I woul