Wednesday, with lamb chops with a dry rub (cumin, allspice, and lots of other spices), the 1995 Jaboulet Cornas. I had no high hopes, and it was a good thing I didn't. Initially a bit grapey and simple, with rather hard tannins. Later some pepper and smoke as the fruit filled out just a bit (dark berry), but the fruit is still modest with a fully mature sense, and the tannins are still biting. Not a lot of pleasure in this bottle. C+
Hopes were even lower for the 1998 "Vaillons" Chablis 1er Cru (375). A half-bottle from a vintage with a mediocre rep. But this one surpassed my low expectations. Less acidic than I expected, but with a very nice mineral core. No sign of oak (or oxidation), a clean pear and white peach fruit base but dominated by a stony minerality. If there was more acidic zip this probably would have gotten an A- from me, but a B for this showing.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.