TN: low expectations, some exceeded (Jaboulet, Long-Depaquit )

Wednesday, with lamb chops with a dry rub (cumin, allspice, and lots of other spices), the 1995 Jaboulet Cornas. I had no high hopes, and it was a good thing I didn't. Initially a bit grapey and simple, with rather hard tannins. Later some pepper and smoke as the fruit filled out just a bit (dark berry), but the fruit is still modest with a fully mature sense, and the tannins are still biting. Not a lot of pleasure in this bottle. C+

Hopes were even lower for the 1998 "Vaillons" Chablis 1er Cru (375). A half-bottle from a vintage with a mediocre rep. But this one surpassed my low expectations. Less acidic than I expected, but with a very nice mineral core. No sign of oak (or oxidation), a clean pear and white peach fruit base but dominated by a stony minerality. If there was more acidic zip this probably would have gotten an A- from me, but a B for this showing.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

Reply to
DaleW
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Hi, Dale -

I hadn't known that 1998 was a poor-ish vintage for Chablis. I have tried a couple of vineyard designated 1998 Chablisiennes and was pleased with them, so maybe I got lucky. BTW, the 2002 regular bottling Chablisienne is on the shelf here at Costco for ~$16. Nice, guilty pleasure wine for folks like me - dyed in the wool California Chardonnay buffs. :^)

Tom S

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Reply to
Tom S

That's a shame, as '95 was a very good year in Cornas. Clape's '95 is quite the wine, but then again he's the ne plus ultra of Cornas.

errr... Producer, Dale?

Mark Lipton

Reply to
Mark Lipton

Hey, I use mediocre to mean mediocre, not poor. Actually, I tend to like '98 white Burgs in general (rep is for middling early drinking vintage) quite a bit. Plus my expectations were down for a half-bottle.

2002 tends to be brilliant in Chablis.

Have you been MIA for a few weeks? Someone (hunt?) posted a note to me a couple weeks ago that I think was meant for you (winemaking questions). If you missed, search for DaleW in title.

Reply to
DaleW

Yes, I loved a '95 Voge.

The Chablis was Long-Depaquit.

Reply to
DaleW

] DaleW wrote: ] > Wednesday, with lamb chops with a dry rub (cumin, allspice, and lots of ] > other spices), the 1995 Jaboulet Cornas. I had no high hopes, and it ] > was a good thing I didn't. Initially a bit grapey and simple, with ] > rather hard tannins. Later some pepper and smoke as the fruit filled ] > out just a bit (dark berry), but the fruit is still modest with a fully ] > mature sense, and the tannins are still biting. Not a lot of pleasure ] > in this bottle. C+ ] ] That's a shame, as '95 was a very good year in Cornas. Clape's '95 is ] quite the wine, but then again he's the ne plus ultra of Cornas. ]

Yes, I meant to ask why such low expectations, too. I've found Jaboulet to be generally reliable enough, in a negoc sort of way. Certainly not at all old for a Cornas. Have you already been disappointed by this one, Dale?

-E

Reply to
Emery Davis

Hi, Dale -

Yeah, I've been busy with the crush until recently. My 2005 Chardonnay is perking along in the fermenters now and doesn't require so much attention at the moment. Looks like really classic stuff from perfectly ripe fruit with good sugar/acid balance. Not as hot as the 2004.

I connected with Hunt and pointed him in the right direction. I have a friend in New Mexico (a fellow winemaker).

Tom S

Reply to
Tom S

Emery, you wrote: ""Yes, I meant to ask why such low expectations, too. I've found Jaboulet to be generally reliable enough, in a negoc sort of way. Certainly not at all old for a Cornas. Have you already been disappointed by this one, Dale? "

I think Jaboulet's domaine wines (owned vineyards like the Crozes Thalabert) can be quite good. And in some vintages (it's been inconsistent lately) the Parallele 45 CdR can be a good value.But......I've found their general basel level negociant wines to pretty much suck (excuse the expression) in most vintages. That applies to the Cornas, the Gigondas, the Vacqueyras, the St. Joseph. Far better values out there for just a few dollars more.

There's also distressing bottle variation in some of their wines.

Just my opinion.

Reply to
DaleW

] Emery, ] you wrote: ] ""Yes, I meant to ask why such low expectations, too. I've found ] Jaboulet to be generally reliable enough, in a negoc sort of way. ] Certainly not at all old for a Cornas. Have you already been ] disappointed by this one, Dale? " ] ] I think Jaboulet's domaine wines (owned vineyards like the Crozes ] Thalabert) can be quite good. And in some vintages (it's been ] inconsistent lately) the Parallele 45 CdR can be a good ] value.But......I've found their general basel level negociant wines to ] pretty much suck (excuse the expression) in most vintages. That applies ] to the Cornas, the Gigondas, the Vacqueyras, the St. Joseph. Far better ] values out there for just a few dollars more. ] ] There's also distressing bottle variation in some of their wines. ] ] Just my opinion. ]

Thanks for the info, Dale. I guess my impressions are out of date, pretty much. The P45 used to be consistantly reasonable, although I too noticed different "batches" within a single vintage.

But I confess I don't think I've had a Jaboulet of any kind since returning to France (for good).

As for your opinion, I value it highly! :)

-E

Reply to
Emery Davis

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