John gathered an intrepid crew (plus me) to take a look at pre-Rolland Ausone, a storied estate (that was often panned in Monkton). I think I?ve had about a half-dozen Ausone?s before, so was eager to try. We were greeted by a cheerful pup (Luna) and a couple of bubblies
2008 Henriot Brut Seems a bit high dosage to me, fine mousse, creamy texture but with acid backbone. B+2005 Henriot ?Cuvee Hemera? Brut I said I had never heard of cuvee and was told it replaces/renames Enchanteleurs. Full, rich, soft, good but I like the ?08 Millesime?s zippy style as well for I assume much less $. B+
John had a nice assortment of cheeses and pates out, as we went through Ausones in flights of two
1990 Ch. Ausone Initially tighter in nose than ?89, soft though with structure, mocha, chalk, red fruits. B+1989 Ch. Ausone Open expressive nose, herbs and coffee, black plum fruit with forest floor, lots of tannic structure, young, needs time. Counting potential my fave of evening. A-/A
1988 Ch. Ausone Great nose, coffee, herbs, mineral. Should last forever but tasting well now. A-1986 Ch. Ausone Tannic, but with a plush fruit palate. B+/B
One constant of night was how each of these continued to change and evolve in glass.
1983 Ch. Ausone Slightly lifted nose, a little offputting reduction but quickly blows off. Crunchy red fruit, bright wine with lively acids. I liked more and more A-/B+1982 Ch. Ausone I thought nose was quite muted at first (others disagreed), but opens. Never muted on palate. Rich dark ?82 fruit, cigarbox. B+/A-
1979 Ch. Ausone Sweet but thin red fruit, a bit short/clipped. Consensus was off bottle (Almaden import, low to mid shoulder fill), C+1976 Ch. Ausone What an overachiever. Red fruit, smoke and licorice, spicy. Most ready of night. B+/A-
John served a mystery wine he had opened when he realized ?79 was iffy. A bit reduced at first, red fruit, chalky, Ron gets its Ausone?s neighbor, the 1976 Ch. Belair. B+/B (others liked more)
1961 Ch. Ausone This was a midshoulder fill, we knew a bit chancey. Too bad, maderized nose, better on palate, you can sense a great wine underneath.A break for some bubbles as John finished up dinner.
NV Camille Saves ?Les Loges? Apparently single vineyard 100% PN from Bouzy. Says 4 grams dosage, I would have thought higher. Good acids, sweet white cherry and apple fruit, smoky and long. B+/A-
With orange-zest short ribs with mushrooms and carrots over rice
Ron had a mystery bottle. Plush mature, and herby, I thought VCC. Drinking great. 1982 Ch. Figeac A-
2000 Ch. Figeac (a generous gift from Mark who couldn?t attend) Ferric, herby/menthol, black cherry, surprisingly open, not as tannic as I would have expected, good length. A-/B+1989 Ch. Figeac Funky nose but not really breety, herby, good finish. B+/A-
1964 Ch. Figeac Ferric, lots of soil tones, good fruit, herbs. A-/B+I had been spitting, but declined a taste of a ?66 Sauternes as I needed to hit the road. Really excellent night, fun group, great food, and a really great bunch of wines. Who needs Rolland? I think everyone really enjoyed entire lineup, though there was plenty of division re preferred vintages.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.