With all the divergent opinions and warnings of inconsistency about the
2003 Bordeaux, I was hesitant about ordering much on futures. I did order some Gloria (sentimental reasons), and then jumped when my local (Rochambeau) had a lower price on Leoville Barton (about $44) than Sams or PC. I figured L-B was a pretty safe bet, because it was well-regarded by Parker, Robinson, and Decanter (Spurrier I think). I got the call last week the Barton was in. I had hoped to wait two weeks for it to settle, but with the unusually warm weather Betsy chose to ask me to grill two racks of lamb, and the Bordeaux siren called.While Betsy was working on kale (Zuni Cafe Cookbook, delicious kale is served over toast and topped with olive oil and shaved aged pecorino, great) for first course, I popped my first bottle of 2003 Leoville-Barton (St. Julien). Open from the get-go, with rich cassis fruit and a bit of herb. By the time I had started fire, grill lamb, and sat down (half-hour), it seemed to have gained in complexity, with some mocha, cedar and pencil lead. Tannins are big but ripe, finish long. This is indeed low-acid (moreso even than the 2000, I think) , but with the vibrancy of the fruit doesn't come across as flabby. Very tasty now, but I will try and exercise restraint and bury rest in cellar. A-
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.