A fall blizzard brought with it a lot of work headaches, a lot of shoveling, and a lot of Basset-toweling (low-slung dogs in 16 inches of snow are a bit messy). But by Sunday AM, things looked clearer. Betsy started cooking duck legs with a Dijon mustard crust, and we took her mom to Newark airport to fly home to sunny CA. We got back home, walked the dog, and shoveled some more. Then we loaded up the duck legs, some bitter greens, and some wine, and jumped on a train to the city. A little walk west from Grand Central brought us to Jay Miller's, where the party had already started. I'll do my best to accurately note the wines, but please excuse any missteps. I immediately filled my plate with some delicious quiche, a mysterious (to me) but good seafood appetizer, and assorted cheeses, and filled a glass with:
1996 Pinon Vouvray Sec Apple pie with a twist of lemon, slightly bubbly with a nice earthy overtone. Betsy surprises me by saying she really likes it- with the exception of stickies, she has usually not cared for Chenin. B+/A-
Then on to:
2002 Heidler Steinhaus Riesling (Kamptal, I'm sure, though I didn't write down) Lime and apple fruit, balanced, long smooth finish B+
2002 Nikolaihof Steiner Hund Riesling (Kremstal) Not giving a lot on the nose, but nice citrus fruit and stoney mineral on palate. There seems to be some controversy about this one, but I like. Needs time, long life ahead B+
The suggested wine to drink with b'stilla (Moroccan rolls, kind of spiced poultry , I think, in a flaky phyllo covering dusted with sugar- delicious) was the 2002 Icardi Moscato d'Asti "La Rosa Selvatica". Sweet even for MdAsti, nice flowers and citrus fruit, a little too sweet for me, but nice.B
Next was 1998 Müller-Catoir Scheurebe Spätlese (I can’t read my writing for actual vineyard, though pretty sure Haardter is first word) There’s a big debate about whether this is corked. Doesn’t seem to be corked to my moderately insensitive nose, but it is a bit strange – somewhat herby notes in some tropical fruit (guava juice?). I’ve never been a Scheurebe-lover, except for one BA that was phenomenal, so take with a grain of salt. B-
About this time we segued into a pumpkin soup with bacon, followed by a a pumpkin casserole (both tasty)
1993 López de Heredia Tondonia Rosé Very nice, red fruit and flowers, charming. B+
Next up were Betsy’s duck and some tandoori chicken, time to go red:
1986 Gentaz-Dervieux Côte-Rôtie Light red cherry fruit, no real C-R character that I can ascertain. I find it ok in an inoffensive way, but not compelling. Later the more sensitive declare it mildly corked (I would have given a B-/C+ otherwise)
1988 Jasmin Côte-Rôtie Much better- violets and smoke on the nose, good berry fruit with some bacon fat and coffee. A-
2001 Clos Roche Blanche "La Closerie" Touraine Light, bright, tart, with bitter cherry/raspberry fruit. Zero idea as to cepage (though since its Loire I assume it's malbec/cot, pinot noir, gamay, & cab franc or some combo). B
1997 Domaine de Perruche Saumur-Champigny "Clos de Chaumont" very nice -ripe dark fruit, a little earthy. B+
Somewhere in here, in the midst of discussions of old science-fiction series, the Catskills, and Cuban restaurants, I suddenly wander into a conversation by a med student re a recent visitor to an emergency room , who was apparently in for genital self-mutilation (or possibly self-circumcision - I didn't want to ask for clarification). I try to back out of the conversation, but it has me trapped. To escape, I fill my glass with:
1995 Contino Rioja Gran Reserva Hey, nice Rioja. Blackberry fruit, vanilla, medium-bodied and smooth. Oak is omnipresent yet integrated. B+
Forgetting that our host was grenachaphobic, I had brought the 1995 Ch. De St Cosme "Valbelle" Gigondas . Tony Fletcher mentions it seems closed, and I think he's right. Some air and coaxing brings out some red berry and lots of cedar. Tony and I think it needs 3-5 years, Brad opines that the fruit will never last longer than the oak. A cautious B.
My other contribution was the 1993 Ph.Gavignet Nuits St. Georges Les Chabœufs. Ripe black cherry fruit, somewhat short finish. A little disappointing. B/B-
The 1999 Branaire (St. Julien) was fairly rich, with blackcurrant fruit, loads of chocolate flavors, and an almost thick texture. I think if I'd had a steak I would have liked more, as it is a B.
I neglected to note the vintage on a Domaine de Durban Beaumes-de-Venise Cotes du Rhône Villages. But thought it a pleasant CdR.
Jay opens one last red, a 2001 Drouhin Beaune–Grèves. A little cold straight from the wine fridge, it opened nicely. Good acidity, pure cherry flavor, quite nice. B+/A-
Dessert was served. Nice comments about a chocolate cheesecake, then Jay served his Peach Cloud. Betsy said this dessert was the most sublime thing she tasted all night- I'm not a dessert person, but will take her word.
I am, however a dessert-wine person, and was ready for the sweet wines. Which started off with a Georgian red. Ah, Georgian wine. Yes, I know you've been all waiting for notes on the NV Tamada Khvanchkura, from the cradle of winemaking. My initial note says "semi-rancid grape juice", but I'm prejudiced in general against sweet reds. I'd give it a D, but that's me.
Redemption for sweet wines came with the 1994 Trimbach Pinot Gris SGN. A little honied apricot, some flowers on the nose, nicely balanced,with minerally finish. Spicy without being overwhelming. B+/A-
Fun night, good food, good wines, nice people. Grade disclaimer: I'm a pretty easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.
Dale
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