TN: Old Jermann SB, Clape CdrR, Potensac, & Hoepler

Aug 20, 2003 3 Replies

Betsy had headed up Tues AM to New Lebanon NY for a few days for some Indian music concerts, and I had invited friends for dinner to keep me from being lonely. But at 6 PM she called, another performer's illness had canceled the performance. She came back arriving a little after 8, right with the other guests. I got the grill going, and we tried a few whites with some smoked salmon & horseradish on cukes, olives, bocconcini, etc. while sitting on front porch.



The whites: Sometimes one takes a chance, even if you realize it's not likely to pay off. When I saw the 1998 Jermann Sauvignon in a sale bin in Maine, I figured at $5 I'd try just in the interest of science. I warned my guests it was likely way over the hill. At first I thought I was right- virtually no fruit, just some grass and mineral. Softer than I expected. With some air a different wine emerged. Gooseberry and citrus fruit never really came to the forefront, but hung in the back as mineral and herb notes dominated. This wine probably should have been drunk a couple years ago, and probably never really had the acidity I want in a SB. But while I don't think I'd ever have paid the $25 normal price on this, it was pretty good for $5! Now what are the chances I'll like that $5 '97 Traminer........ This one gets a B.


2000 Domaine des Morats (Jean-Jacques Vincent) St-Véran Pear and citrus fruit, surprising amount of wood for a Mâconnais. But despite the oaky touches good Chard fruit shows through, and there's a nice crispness to the wine. B+

The Aveleda Vinho Verde (no vintage on label, but 2002 on back seal) was crisp, light, with orange peel and mineral flavors. Nothing one needs to think about here, but a good buy at $6-7. B



Then my porterhouses, squash, and corn came off the grill, and we moved inside and tried the reds.


1997 A. Clape Côtes du Rhône. Good balance of blackberry fruit and acidity, some earth and smoked meat aromas. Finish a little short, but overall very good for a '97 CdR. Last bottle, alas. B+


1982 Ch. Potensac (Médoc) Nice floral nose with a hint of forest floor, mix of cassis and red fruit. Fruit is still going strong for a 21 year Cru Bourgeois. Lots of attractive secondary aromas- earth, leather, adn a wisp of cedar. The tannins have mostly slipped away, and there's a little mushroomy note I enjoy, but which encourages me I should drink my remaining couple bottles soon. Roast chicken would have probably been a better match at this point than bleu steak, but it went ok. A-



With dessert (assorted pastries friend picked up)



2000 Höpler Eiswein (Burgenland) I realize this isn't the premier producer in the area, but had picked up one on a whim. Quite sweet, lush texture, flavors of canned pears and honey (Betsy says coconut macaroons, but I don't get that). Someone says Oolong tea, and I kind of get that. Hugely popular at the table, but I think doesn't have that nervy balance between the sugar and acid that I love in ice wine. Too round, too soft. B-/B

Fun night. And best part was instead of solo cleanup, as I had anticipated during the day, Betsy is there (and offers to do glasses next AM!). I go to bed a happy man, not lonely as I anticipated.



My usual disclaimer: I'm a pretty easy grader, basically A is a very good wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.



Dale



Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply


Keep in mind, Dale, that '97 was a *very* different year in the N. and S. Rhone. As Clape is a Cornas producer, I would suspect that his CdR is sourced from vineyards that lie nearby and is probably mostly Syrah. Since '97 was a very good (if soft) year in the N. Rhone, I am not overly surprised that this was a good wine. (Wish I had some!)

Mark Lipton

Yep, that's exactly right. We tend to forget that the CdR appellation extends into the northern Rhone, but of course it does. I've had some of the basic CdR from the excellent M. Clape, and it is indeed mostly syrah, just as Dale's note suggest. The percentage varies by year, IIRC. Good point about '97, too, Mark.

Worth noting: I ran across a "table" wine called "vin des amis" I think, from Clape. It was quite expensive, around $10 US, and really awful. I actually had the misfortune of buying a case, untasted. To be avoided at all costs! Not sure what happened to this wine, very surprising from an otherwise fine producer.

-E

Mark & Emery,

Actually, I think the CdR and the Vin des Amis are both Syrah. In fact, I think that they're both actually made mostly from wines in and around Cornas. Either just outside the appelation, Cornas vines that are too young to qualify, or grapes that didn't quite make the cut. What vintage did you have of the Vin des Amis, Emery? I've had a couple, one quite good, the other fairly lousy. It's essentially a 3rd wine, whatever didn't qualify for other two. This is all just fuzzy memory,of course.

As to 97 as a Northern Rhone vintage, with my bent for acidity, it's not generally been a fave of mine. I think with the Clape CdR (which wasn't as round as most) gone, one bottle of G. Bernard Cote-Rotie is all I have left.

take care,

Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

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