TN Ridge Latour Margaux Beaucastel and other goodies. SFWS

Dec 13, 2006 2 Replies

Solihull Fine Society Christmas tasting.



Rowland put on a tasting which was one of the finest and most expensive our society has had in our 27 years existence.



The only clue to the night was that there was a single theme and one rogue wine.



All blind as normal. It turned out to be one of the most difficult tastings ever. Many red faces and offers of resignation ;-)



Bollinger Grande Annee 1997, Straw and fine mousse, lovely digestive biscuit nose with wet cardboard overtones. Soft entrance with fruit and some really sharp acidity, which balanced the acidity well. Yum.



Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Domaine Leroy 1997, a pale Burgundian robe, a little dull. A sublime pisspot pinot nose with simple vegetal hints, opened up after 30 mins, soft palate, long fruit and finished a tad bitter. Was to turn out to be one of the poorest wines of the night!! Drink up



Hermitage La Chapelle, Jaboulet Aine, 1997, good legs no hint of brown, extract+, Some VA that blew off to reveal a restrained spicy ? pinot, with a rather chemical nose, big fruit and harsh tannins, New World and going over, Ha Ha!, not good and reflects The poor recent years of La Chapelle. Drink up



Beaucastel 1997, what a coincidence with Bills notes of y'day. Nailed by the writer, ( makes up for the rest). Bright as a button, no ageing, noseful of bret that gave it away ( cf Bills Notes), blew offf to reveal a rather sublime leafmould and compost heap, with spice. A wonderful soft entry with sweet soft tannins, long. Superb and one of the WOTN. Drink and keep 5-10.



Monte Bello, Ridge Vineyards 1997. Brooding power, dusty spice and rubber, cedar and spice complex, a soft entrance, then Bang, big fruit and tannins yet so easy to drink now, a class act. I thought it was a super Tuscan, others went for Oz Shiraz, or even a hopeful Zin. A long life ahead.



Ch. Pichon-Longueville Baron 1997, much paler than the Ridge, hint of brown, classic claret nose, cinnamon, leather, old cupboards. Watery after the Ridge!, slight tannins and spice, wonderful balance, long++, a really good claret. Drink next 5 yeras.



Ch. Latour, 1997, opaque viscous with no age. Complex steely, flinty, cedar, massive fruit and tannins, spice and bite. So long, wonderful. My WOTN and I thought it was Haut Brion. Easily drinkable now and another ten years.



Ch LLC 1997, A purple edged beauty, dumb and complex, immature tight claret nose, firm tannins and good fruit, yet not enough acidity to give it balance, a little flabby says my notes. Drink now, but I feel the future may be marred by the lack of acidity.



Ch Margaux 1997. A good looker like the Latour, no ageing,, toasty oaky vegetal , seaweed and leather, ( Nose of the NIght), full fruit and spice , rounded tannins, no sharp edges, finishes a tad short. I thought it was Latour.



What a line up, total cost GBP 636, but worth every penny. In France a lightweight early drinking vintage and I agree, I thought the first growths were superb at GBP 95 each. Rowland chose the vintage as one that would be drinking yet affordable. (At this rate I might have to go back to work ;-( )


Indeed, John, what a tasting! One thing that struck me was the contrast between your wines and the "vintage chart" generalizations of '97: good in CA, thin in Bdx, good in N. Rhone and (according to certain critics on this side of the pond) good in the Cote D'Or. That the La Chapelle was as poor as it was speaks, as you say, to their decline in fortune recently, but the Leroy Vougeot seems to me to really put the nail in the coffin regarding the ultimate quality of that year in the Cote D'Or. Of course, Latour, LLC and Margaux are hardly typical Bdx, but the Pichon-Baron showing so well struck me as a bit of a surprise. And Ridge is now one of the very few CalCabs that I still consider buying. They have not given up on the pursuit of balance and structure to produce massively fruity wines. Personally, I liked the '98 better than the '97 Monte Bello from Ridge, but they are a very reliable producer these days.

Again, thanks for the very stimulating notes, Mark Lipton

Thanks for notes, nice tasting. Good to concentrate on "what might be drinking well now" rather than superstar vintages.

I'm not surprised at the Pichon-Baron, they've been on a roll since '95. And several good seconds are drinking well right now - Poyferre, etc.

I'm not generally a Leroy fan - occasionally they blow me away (on other people's dimes, I can't afford). There are some good '97s for current drinking - Musigny from Roumier or Mugnier, but those are out of my range, too! I'd be hard pressed to consider buying any '97 Burg unless price was incredible.

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