TN: Rioja, Trentino, WA, Loire, Chile, Burgundy

Friday with a Mario Batali recipe for a pasta with parsnips and pancetta (really quite good!), the 2004 Drouhin Cote de Beaune Villages. Rather sturdy Burg with fresh raspberry and black cherry fruit surrounded by earth and a little coffee. Good acidity, some fine tannins. Very nice wine for $15ish. B+

Over a couple nights (usually with a bit of Boucheron) the 2005 Michel Bailly "Les Loges" Pouilly-Fume. Grapefruit and grass, a little cat pee and muskmelon. I really liked the 2002 of this, then ignored as prices went up. Thought this might be a good deal at $13, but it leaves me a little bored, though competent and typical, and I don't think I'll order more. B/B-

Saturday I went to Blu in Hastings for a goodbye party for friends moving to Hong Kong. Nice party, nice nibbles (lamb chops, roast beef crostini, grilled veggies, spring rolls, etc) and nice wines (well, mostly nice):

2005 Bollini Pinot Grigio (Trentino) I started with a glass of this. Nice, light but not dilute, good acidity over ripe apple fruit. I'm not a big PG drinker but this is tasty. B

1995 Muga Prado Enea Rioja Gran Riserva Nice to see this old friend. Straddles the line between modern and traditional, with medium body, red fruit, some leather and cigarbox. Good finish, balanced. Kind of Rioja meets Medoc. A-/B+

2004 Terra Noble Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (Chile). Oversweet, not fun. Overripe red plums, but with a green minty streak. A bit of vanillay oak. Like a milkshake immediately after brushing your teeth. C+

2002 Sineann "McDuffee "Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley) Big dark blackcurrant and blackberry fruit, a little grilled meat, a bit of tar. Big impressive wine, big ripe tannins. A bit too much fruit-driven for my tastes right now, but this could develop into a very impressive Washington wine. B/B+ for now.

Good night with good people, Tarrytown's loss is Hong Kong's gain.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

Reply to
DaleW
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I use a lot of Mario Batali's recipes too. Last night I served his recipe for short ribs and tomorrow I'm making his Swordfish Involtini. Have you read the book about him named Heat? I've always liked the Cote de Beaune Villages, a solid Burgundy at a great price.

Reply to
Professor

"DaleW" wrote in news:1162760270.697225.315320 @f16g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

Dale,

nice to see you enjoyed this Prado Enea. In october 2004 I attended a tasting of all the range of Bodegas Muga and this is my tasting note:

Prado Enea GR 1995: red garnet with brick in the rim. A bit cloudy but we were said it had been bottled a few days ago. Fine reduction in the nose, with cherries in licquor, liquorize, a few balsamics. Tannins resolved and great acidity over the oak notes. A bit short. No defects in the form of old/dirty oak, wet fur and so on. The only wine from the tasting that I would consider buying.

However, I can only think of this wine as a traditional wine. What is that make you think of it like a midpoint between both styles?

Best,

Santiago

Reply to
Santiago

What sort of a fellow is Batali? My New Yorker friends swear by him and want me to go to some or the other place he owns every time I visit. Personally I had a very mixed experience the one time I did take their advice and go to Otto:

+ves
  1. Genuine barkeeper, never thought that a dry vodka martini can taste so good
  2. Fabulous winelist at (coming from the UK) very decent prices
  3. Very friendly and knowledgable sommelier

-ves (And these are more important for a cook like Batali, I suppose)

  1. Ordinary pastas, half-done in the name of being al dente
  2. Horrible pizzas (Everything on the base - tomato, fish, olives, mushrooms - tasted like it is from a can, waxy ham and speck)
  3. Most food tepid by the time it arrived at the table

Is it similar to the experience other have had at Otto? Or was it that we were unlucky? Or is Otto a tourist trap anyways? Would appreciate comments.

Cheers

Reply to
TB

Reply to
DaleW

Santiago, I think of traditional Rioja as more like La Rioja Alta or LdHeredia (no toasty oak flavors) . This to me has that obvious new French oak edge, but not too oaky nor is it heavily extracted. For my tastes it is more balanced than some of the more modern producers (or the Torre Muga for that matter).

I remember you're not a LdH fan. I do like the traditional style, but I also like the Prado Enea and for that matter some truly modern wines such as some Artadis.

Reply to
DaleW

I haven't eaten at Otto. Most of my friends think the appetizers are great, and the wine list (especially the quartinos) interesting and well-priced. And most have loved the pasta. Almost no one likes the pizzas!

I had an extraordinary meal at Po when he owned. I enjoyed Esca and Lupa. One day, Babbo!

I think every celebrity chef tends to spread his/her self thin. If you didn't like Otto, there are a lot of great restaurants in NYC that aren't Batali-ed!

cheers.

TB wrote:

Reply to
DaleW

"DaleW" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@k70g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

I understand what you mean. Your description of Prado Enea is what I call "a no defects traditional Rioja" (no dirty notes, no wet fur...). I do not like Torre Muga also.

Best,

Santiago

Reply to
Santiago

Reply to
DaleW

Reply to
DaleW

Bollini make a Reserve (not in ther DOC) that is very good.

Chile? You cannot be serious.

Reply to
UC

Michael, just a heads up, your ass is showing again.

Reply to
Professor

I made the swordfish with tomato sauce, onions, garlic, pine nuts, currants, Gaeta olives, capers, orange zest, parsley, thyme and red pepper flakes. I served it with broccoli rabe in garlic, lemon and Parmesan. We liked both and they went well with our $8 bottle of 2005 Meridian Pinot Grigio (I know, very cheap but great wine for the price).

The dish is Mediterranean, but I still have Piedmont on the brain. Wednesday I'll try to create a simple Northern Italian version of the same idea using #1 tuna pounded flat and wrapped around baby spinach, ricotta and herbs baked in a red pepper sauce. Tomorrow night we're dining at Aujourd'hui, the restaurant at the Four Seasons for their Epicurean Feast Series - A Piedmont Feast with Truffle, Risotto and Barbaresco.

Reply to
Professor

I have 'enjoyed' Chilean wines from time to time, and found them exceedingly undistinguished.

Reply to
UC

You haven't had the right ones. Saying they're all bad broadcasts your ignorance.

Reply to
Professor

Well, you cannot buy them here.

Reply to
UC

Sometimes you need to search beyond the corner minimart:

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1615

Reply to
Professor

My local retaiulers don't feature Chilean wines prominently, if at all. I ask for many of my Italian favorites, and they oblige me.

Reply to
UC

Reply to
Joe "Beppe"Rosenberg
[snip]

Amen! UC comes up again with an unwarranted generalization. If Chile is so bad, why would the Antinoris have established a beachhead there?

Vino

Reply to
Vino

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