TN: Sassoalloro, Franciscan, Esmonin

Oct 29, 2004 2 Replies

Friday Betsy made lamb chops in a Calabresan pepper/tomato sauce. The wine was the 2002 Brigaldara Valpolicella Classico. High-toned, with a lifted black cherry aroma. Food-friendly, with a noticable but not aggressive acidity and a simple fruitiness. Pleasant enough wine that I wasn't excited about, but as (a) Betsy said 3 times she really liked it & (b) it's about $11, it'll go on the rebuy list. B 



I was intrigued by references on a food board to coffee as a steak rub, so Sunday when it was my turn to cook, I tried. I took a couple of thick ribeyes and rubbed in a mixture of ground coffee, good quality paprika, and kosher salt (2:1:1), along with a dash of black pepper. After grilling I was rewarded with delicious steaks. Betsy was astonished when I told her what I'd done- not trace of coffee flavor. Great recipe. Wish I could say the same re the wine. The 1997 Franciscan Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon was a bit disappointing- overripe red fruit, seemingly MORE oaky than on release, comparatively short finish. B-   Monday, with a delicious veal/pepper ragu (Marcella Hazan recipe), the 1997 Sassoalloro (Jacopo Biondi-Santi). Ah, now this is more like it. Well-balanced modern-styled Sangiovese, the vanilla-ey oak now just a whisper in the background, good acidity and deep fruit, hints of leather and coffee. Good wine, I think it's my last one and that makes me sad. :(   B++   On Tuesday Betsy stopped by Fairway on way home from a rehearsal, picked up some wonderful mushrooms-chanterelles and maitake. She cooked those simply with garlic while I grilled some pork chops. The wines was the 2002 Sylvie Esmonin "Cuvee Sylvie" Bourgogne rouge. There's a hint (just a hint) of new oak, with very ripe dark cherry and redcurrant fruit,  and a good long earthy/iron finish. No need for concern here from what I taste, good wine for $14-15. B/B+   On Wednesday I had leftovers while Betsy worked- retried all three- I still liked the mini-Super-Tuscan (welterweight-Tuscan) and the Burg, now actively disliked the Cab and sent it to the sink.   Saturday my organization had a 20th year non-gala celebration, which was a lot of fun (and a lot of work). Some ITB friends had donated some wines, and between dealing with details and schmoozing I managed to taste several:



2003 Borsao - maybe a little riper than previous years, but still a nice,balanced, strutured if slightly simple wine.
2000 Old Field Vineyard Chardonnay (North Fork, LI)-decent acidity, pear fruit, but really way too much wood for the fruit.
2000 Old Field Vineyard Merlot- now this is a pleasant surprise. Now ripe round Merlot, soft and easy drinking, decent finish.     Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.   Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply


Dale, How would you compare that wine in style to other Valpolicella Classicos (like Zenato's, f'rinstance)? At the price, it sounds atttractive.

Is that the same Biondi-Santi of Brunello infamy?

Does this quell your concerns re the Laurent connection?

Mark Lipton

Pretty consistent with the Allegrini - light to medium bodied, fresh - it's been a while since I tried the Zenato.

I think Jacopo is part of the same family, but this is his personal estate. I think I remember these are Brunello clones grown outside the BdM area. Maybe Mike knows more?

Well, not totally. I have some S. Esmonin Gevrey V.V. coming. I worry a little because the Laurent heavy-oak treatment tends to go up as the stature of the wine increases (I haven't found his basic Bourgogne to be out-of-control oaky). But on the positive side, I think Laurent has shown more subtlety over last few years (in Burgs at least - the Tardieu-Laurent Rhones aren't subtle!). So even if he is in charge of the cellar, maybe not so bad. Dale

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