TN: Dugat, Lignier, Franciscan

Jan 17, 2005 9 Replies

Thursday Betsy made it in to LGA despite massive fog delays and diversions, she was happy she didn't need to cook dinner. Friends showed up, meat lasagna in hand. Before we sat down, we enjoyed the 2002 Naia (Rueda) . Crisp bright wine with grapefruit and some grassy/herb notes. Great apertif wine. B/B+



With the lasagna, a pair of reds:


2001 Fattoria Sonnino Chianti Montespertoli Medium-bodied and correct, modest cherry fruit and an underlying acidity. Not a wine to look for, but ok value at $8. B/B-. (What is Montespertoli? It's not one of the Chianti zones. )


2001 Franciscan Oakville Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Flashy California style, which I knew would please one of my guests. Deep ripe blackberry & blackcurrant fruit, plenty of vanilla/oak flavors, good finish. A bit tannic right now. Best for this wine in several vintages. Nice steak wine, at $21 I'll probably buy more. B++



Friday was lemon chicken, and I thought I'd go for a lemony wine. I opened the



2001 Hubert Lignier Bourgogne Aligoté, and it was frankly too lemony. A bit like biting into a lemon. High acid, subdued tart fruit, and a stony mineral finish.I'm pretty acid-tolerant, but this was really too much. Lignier has an excellent rep, at least for his reds, but I much preferred Aligotés from de Villaine and Lafarge. C+

Sunday Betsy felt she would skip wine after Saturday Bordeaux blowout, but I'm steadfast in my commitment to wine with dinner (or my debauchery, if you prefer). I offered to cook dinner, thawing a big fillet of king salmon my brother had caught on an Alaska trip. I made a salmon in balsamic glaze from the new Gourmet cookbook, and felt that I needed a bigger Pinot for this. No



375s in cellar were calling to me, so I opened a 2001 Claude Dugat Bourgogne and transferred half to an empty 375 and recorked. The remaining wine did a good job to standing up to the dinner- the salmon with its intense glaze, mushrooms in a chive/cream sauce, and green beans. The Dugat wasn't as oaky as some Dugats , pretty intense black cherry & kirsch fruit with some forest floor and light floral notes. Really about the fruit, but in a good way. B+

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.   Dale



Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply


I've always like Franciscan wines--I guess I'm one of those "flashy Californian style" kinda guys. But, the Oakville Estate caused me to open Cellar because I recalled an OE cab that I had last year.

It was Robert Mondavi Oakville Estate Cabernet '99--it was offered by Sam's on special for $24.99 reduced from about $50. I bought four and here's what I noted: "Big, warm, full-bodied cab. Chocolate, leather, cassis flavors. Resolved tannins. Drinkable now, but will be interesting to watch for a while."

I guess that means that Oakville Estate is a good QPR area for the last couple of years. Like you, I try to keep a leash on the routine drinking wine costs and lean toward $12-$20 wines (or less when I find a Rex Goliath style bargain). At the $20-25 price point for a full-bodied cabernet, I get credit card urges....

Ed Rasimus Fighter Pilot (USAF-Ret) "When Thunder Rolled"

formatting link

If you can read Italian, there's info here:

formatting link

Ed,

To be clear, I've liked Franciscan wines in the past, especially the Oakville. Flashy California appeals to me sometimes, just as subtler styles appeal at others. My limited experience is that the Franciscan Oakville can be a good (to very good) mid-tier Cabernet in good vintages. But in more questionable vintages such as '98 & '00, might not be first choice.

I've never tried the '99 Mondavi Oakville, but will keep eyes open. best, Dale

Thanks Ken. I can't read Italian, but with English and some really bad French I attempted to read anyway. It sounds like Montespertoli IS a zone. Did I read that correctly?

I think so, Dale. I'm far from fluent, but I know a little Italian, and I read it the same way you did.

Perhaps one of our native Italian speakers here can confirm (or deny) this.

Ken,

I didn't check enough books. Hugh Johnson's pocket book notes that the Montespertoli was added as a Chianti zone in '97, says it's similar to Colli Fiorentini.

Thanks for your help. Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

Dale and Ed,

How well do each of you think the 2001 Franciscan will age? If you had one or two bottles and had to guess when it would be at peak, would you open it in perhaps 2007 or 2009?

JK

I have two more, and plan to drink between now and 2010 probably. I don't see this as a long ager, but could probably hold at least till 2014. For my tastes, however, the point in this style wine is the young vibrant fruit. Ideally a couple years to shed a bit of tannin, but pretty tasty now if paired with a steak (I find rare meat with some fat tames tannins well). Dale

Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required