TN: Summery wines: Rheinhessen, Loire, Lambrusco, Rosado, NZ

Jul 17, 2008 3 Replies

Betsy is in NH for some concerts, so Tuesday I just raided fridge for leftovers. Wine was the 2007 Keller Kabinett (Rheinhessen).Keller has been getting lots of buzz, this is my first try. I quite like. Fruit is an interesting blend of peaches, cherries, and lime zest. There's a mineral note, a little more flinty than say a Mosel slatiness. Good length for level, straightforward clean acids, clean and pure. B+



Wednesday was warm, but gorgeous with low humidity. I put together a couple of salads (caprese and green), some cheeses, soppresata and bresaolo and headed for waterfront. One of those nights where everyone seemed to come out- I was meeting 2 friends at concert, but our group expanded to about 2 dozen. Lovely night, and we sat around after concert for more than an hour, till it was total darkness. Lots of sharing and laughter, only needed Betsy to be perfect. Some wines were of course sampled:


2007 Chivite "Gran Fuedo" Rosado I've quite liked this in past, this vintage came across as a little bigger and sterner. Framboise flavors with moderate acidity, ok value at $9-10 (this used to be alovely light rosé for $5!). B/B-

NV Cleto Chiarli "Vigneto Enrico Cialdini" Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro I'm a fool for Lambrusco and cured meats. Blackberries and a little Concord grape, just a hint of sweetness, light froth. Ripe tannins, a nice bitter edge to the finish. B+


2006 Crossroads "Destination" Sauvignon Blanc Very SBish, gooseberry/catpee and a little hint of hot pepper. A bit short on finish, not much depth. B-


2006 Ch.Soucherie Rosé de Loire (producer- Soucherie/Tijou- is only in tiny print) Very fragile, gentle strawberry fruit in a lightweight package. A nice apertif B


2006 Cézin Coteaux du Loir Blanc Apple fruit with a little edge of clover honey. Light to midweight, not a lot of length, but clean and tasty. B-/B

Ruggeri Spago Prosecco A little residual sugar, bright apple fruit, not complex but certainly drinkable. B-



Fun night.



Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.  



Interesting notes, particularly on the Keller. I had one of his Spatlesen from one of his better regarded vineyards (Dalsheimer Hubacker) and still didn't see what the fuss was about. Price for the wine wasn't too bad (found it at a huge sale, paid about $17, so no complaints) - but given the hype I'm hearing about Keller (with people going as far as to put him on the pedestal of Donnhoff, Schaefer and co.), I wonder what I'm missing...

Salil wrote in news:e34f4ad2-ea71-4722-9740- snipped-for-privacy@s50g2000hsb.googlegroups.com:

For once, I think that Keller deserves all the fuss he gets (if not more). But it is not the classical Pradikat wines what you should look for.

Not that they are bad, but the master pieces are the basic Keller Trocken (a QbA), the Riesling von der Fels Trocken, the RR Trocken and, obviously, the Grosses Gewachs.

Please have a look at them and if you have the chance to get a bottle of Von der Fels 2007 (goes for 21 euro in Spain), you will get a taste of the real thing. Not that they need more promotion, btw.

All the best,

s.

DaleW wrote: []

Hi Dale,

Glad you got a chance to try this. It's the entry white that Fresneau makes, but a real work horse at ~3 EU. We use it for one of the house whites, from cooking to quaffing. Still on the 2005 here which is more structured as you would imagine.

The Jasnieres are more complex, again as you'd expect.

Got to make a trip down there soon, it's only about an hour in the car from here.

-E

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required