TN, Terroir, an education on OZ and Rhone

Oct 11, 2006 3 Replies

Solihull Fine Wine Society, October tasting.



Due to the abscence of most of the members, six of us sat down to an impromptu at Adrians. The original tasting was white burgundy, but when told the cost EACH would be more than £60, we voteds for the alternative.



What an alternative, all to do with terroir, only six wines, fortunate for me as the driver. Blind as usual. All wines had been hastily decanted so all were a little dull.



The first three wines were a special release from the D'Arenburg Estate in OZ. We tasted the three wines that make up the assemblage of "The Custodian



2002"

The wines were Grenache from three different soil types which would then be blended to make the wine.



The Custodian, Grenache, 2002. LOAM. Brick red with no brown., a very restrained nose, some fruit but hard work to get anything,



The Custodian, Grenache, 2002, SAND & CLAY, looked just like Loam, Wonderful soft spice, organic nose, old leather, opened up over an hour. Soft entry, good fruit and tannins, spice and cinnamon, very long, Wonderful.



The Custodian Grenache, 2002, DEEP SAND. Colour as the above, A subtle restrained nose which was complex but I could not make a decision on the grape. Soft entry, slightly austere with fruit and an excess of vanilla.



What a difference between the same grape from the same area with three different soil types. Adrian did not have the final assemblage so I did a DIY mix of 1)40%, 2)30%, 3) 30%, not very good, all of the joy of 2, subjugated by the dullness of 1.



The second flight of three Southern Rhones



Ch Mont Redon 1995, brown edge, good extract. A very bland sweet simple nose, which evolved in the glass to release a delicate floral hint. Soft and very approachable palate, spice and some maderisation?



Vieux Telegraphe, 1995, brown edge, wonderful spice organic tobacco, old claret but not French, wonderful. Austere tannins, long pencils and spice, perfumed, long. I wrote "nectar", thought it was a Musar.



Beaucastel, 1995, oh dear, corked a bit or Beaucastel. It seems that Beaucastel can have a strange nose, but this strange.? Heated argument about the nose and palate. Smelt of old dishwasher water to me. Sweet austere palate.........bitter. I hope this is corked because I have some.



NOTE, must buy more Vieux Telegraphe and less Beaucastel.



John


I too hope the Beaucastel was corked, I also own some. The terroir tasting is interesting. I've done a couple of similar with one producer's Burgs from different 1ers, and a pair of SBs from Styria from winemonger.com (where is Emily? Always liked her posts). This seems even better with soils identified. Thanks for notes.

I'd have voted the same, John (good to see a post from you, BTW). And it does sound like a fascinating tasting, though I haven't been too fond of the D'Arenberg Grenache in the past (not Grenach-y enough for my tastes). As for VT vs. Beaucastel, they are so different that they scarcely deserve the same appellation -- and of course they do have very different compositions, with VT being far more Grenache-driven while Beaucastel has a hefty component of Mourvedre. I have them both, but now you've got me worried about the '95 Beaucastel. Will I be able to resist the siren song? Stay tuned.

Mark Lipton

Mark

I always lurk, but it has been a long hot summer of helping with two kids moving into their first homes and some splendid holidays.

We had a week in Speyside in Scotland and did a few distilleries ;-)

OT, if anyone gets to Scotland I can recommmend the Macalan distilery, limited to ten persons, the tour is very educational and fun. We were the only Brits, the rest were Yanks!!!

Cheers

John

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