TN: Verical Tasting of Cadenza wines

In 1980 two musicians John and Tim Crouch founded Allegro Vineyards in Brouge (York Co) Pennsylvania and until Tim's death in

2000 produced world class Chardonnay and a Meritage Red, Cadenza. Tim grew the grapes that John crafted until both became ill. After Tim's death John sold the winery to Kris Miller and Carl Helrich and until his death in March continued to "sit with" his wines especially the Cadenzas.

To honor the Crouches, Allegro repeated a 1999 vertical of the Cab Reserves and Cadenzas at 4 tastings. Here is my notes front the November 15th event.

1991 Cremant- Made with 100% chardonnay. fruity nose, slight petillance, applely finish. 84/100.

2002 Reserve Chardonnay-First Chard made by new owners. Good acidity, heavy oaky-vanillan flavors dominate 86/100.

1983 Chardonnay Reserve. John Crouch's reserve chards were always super-oaky on release and to say the least hard to appreciate and as his Maryland representative, I always argued for a lighter touch; well I was wrong this 20 year old wine tasted like a fat toasty gracefully aging Meursault. The colour was deep brown and the flavours a rich vanilla with quite an aftertaste 89/100.

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon (100%CS) Very tannic, fruity, high acid. 87/100 Not yet released.

1985 CS Reserve--dark red to brown, still tannic; oaky & herbaceous. Not a good year so no Cadenza made 86/100.

1982 CS Reserve(5% merlot & c.franc each)--still some purple tones, high acid, moderate fruit, cassis notes fading from 99 showing 87/100

1983 CS Reserve(15% Merlot, 10% CF)Deep red, sweet flavours. fully mature 85/100

First Cadenza 84(60% CF, 40% merlot) no longer available. Scored 88/100 in 1999.

1986 Cadenza(25% Merlot 10% CF)Deep red, tannic, briary,herbaceous, good cassis like fruit 85/100

1988 Cadenza (12% merlot, 3% CF)1st artist label. great balance, good tannins, deep red, highly concentrated. 90/100

1991 Cadenza (5% each merlot & CF)deep purple-red rich viscous flavours. Rounding out & losing "baby fat" 91/100

1992 Cadenza (5% each merlot & CF) herbaceous, rich, deep red, berries, lovely perfume 88/100

1994 Cadenza (12% CF 3% Merlot) red colour, tannic, spicy, good finish. Very ready. 87/100.

1995 Cadenza (8%CF) Only the legendary 1980 Byrd CS from Maryland can approach the heights of this still evolving wine. In

1999 this wine was paired with a 1995 Ch Montrose and was pegged by many blind as a St Estephe. Red purple colours. deep complex fruit, gobs and gobs of hedonistic berry & cassis flavours. 93/100 but should become a 95 pointer in a few years.

1997 Cadenza (11% CF). The merlot vineyard was destroyed in 1994 and the Crouches couldn't find a source for satisfactory merlot. No doubt this tannic monster would be more balance with a 3% dose of merlot but this is red purple, jammy berry-like and closed in. 88/100

1998 Cadenza(3% CF 2% Merlot). John's last Cadenza is more immediately forthcoming then the 97. Lots of chewy frit and moderate tannin. Right now better than the 97. 89/100.

Note:I am a very hard scorer and generally find my scores 2-3 points less then the WA and 3-5 less than the WS scores.

As you can see Cadenza was made only in better vintages after the 1st in

1984. Only the 1998 is available at $32.49 from the winery. The chardonnay reserve is sold out.

There are a few Maryland Cabs to rival Cadenza, both Basignani's Lorenzino and Rob Lyons Catoctin Cab Reserves are the most consistent with Elk Run and Woodhall's Copernica Vineyard making great strides. Lyons was winemaker for Byrd before he founded Catoctin. I'm behind the curve on Virginia reds in general. G. Hamilton Mowbray made some excellent Cab Franc at Montbray before he passed away and I tasted some good Can Franc at the last Governors Cup competition but none to top Montbrays.

We hope to put together a Mid Atlantic wine showcase to feature Maryland, Virginis, West Va and Eastern Pennsylvania wines:cabs/meritage, chards and non-fortified dessert wines. Any suggestions are welcome.

Reply to
Joe Beppe Rosenberg
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: 1995 Cadenza (8%CF) Only the legendary 1980 Byrd : CS from Maryland can approach the heights of this still evolving wine. In

Joe, this must have been when Byrd was good. In the early 90's (92 perhaps?) I purchased a case of Byrd at the winery with high hopes, but most of those hopes were dashed by some bad volatile acidity. These were mostly cabs and blends from the late 1980 vintages. A couple were drinkable early on, but the rest had to be used as drain cleaner. A shame too. Should have seen how much sediment got poured along with wine! How are Catoctin's wines?

Mark S

Reply to
<mjsverei

Bret Byrd was not a good winemaker, when Rob Lyons made his wines from about

1978-1982, they were very good, Rob apprenticed at Chateau Montelena, Bryd had different winemakers after Rob founded Catoctin in 1983 but no one matched Lyons. Catoctin wines are very good but are best purchased at the winery--they have a big local wholesaler who doesn't always have optimum storage, IMHO. Also you get new goods at the winery, the wholesaler is still selling older vintages of blushes and light whites.
Reply to
Joe Beppe Rosenberg

Sounds like a nice tasting, Joe. As you know, I've only had the '98 Cadenza (and on the 2nd occasion it was corked, alas) but it would have been nice to see how they develop with age. That '95 in particular sounds like a fantastic wine...

Mark Lipton

Reply to
Mark Lipton

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