TN: weak Vermentino, kick#$% Savigny

Mar 08, 2006 5 Replies

Monday Betsy made a delicious seafood risotto with clams, mussels, scallops, and shrimp (while I have few culinary skills, I'm a fanatic about making broth from any bones/shells/carcasses we have, this benefited mightily from the lobster broth I had made and frozen week or two before). While I normally shy away from WinesWithAnimalsonLabel, I did have a bottle with a big red lobster on front, the



2004 Santa Maria la Palma "Aragosta" Vermentino Di Sardegna. I once had a fantastic Vermentino in outdoor cafe in Portland, and have been looking for another ever since (the Argiolas comes close). The search continues. This one is surprisingly flat for Vermentino, dull apple (like a Granny Smith, but not as crisp) fruit that sits heavily in mouth. Not enough acidity for my taste, eh. B-/C+

Tuesday Betsy was heading out for opening night as I got home. I puttered around before getting out some leftovers - lamb, sugar snap peas, etc. I opened a bottle of the 2002 J.M. Pavelot Savigny-les-Beaune. Remarkable concentration for a village wine from a "lesser" village. Flowery (roses, violets) nose, tart cherry fruit on the palate. Medium-bodied, with some power yet a feeling of lightness. Long finish, with some damp earth/leaves and mineral notes emerging with time. A-



I had bought a couple of these at a winecommune "buy now" deal, at an incredible price ($12, but only ended up as an OK/good deal with WCs shipping charges). As I was drinking last night, I bid on another 6 at an even lower price- I won two. Even with shipping (I got a couple other things this time, so less per bottle) a very good deal. I look forward to a couple of Pavelot '02 1ers I have based on the village wine.



Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.



Argiolas and Selle & Mosca are the best Vermentinos from Sardinia I have had.

DaleW wrote:

OK, but you will find better ones in Liguria, and some in Corsica.

"DaleW" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

Argiola is good, the one for which I search is Vermentino de Gallura, a fantastic experience.

Also in Toscana, but I prefer the Sardinian versions to the Tuscan one I have had, even though the Tuscan was 'heavier' and more expensive. The Sardinian Vermentino has a certain something the Tuscan does not have. Concentration is not everything. Balance and freshness, and fruitiness are why I drink Vermentino. I don't want a Vermentino that tastes like a big oaky California Chardonnay.

Agreed, the Tuscan stuff is heavy and uninteresting for the most part, it's just there so they can say they make a white...

Agreed on the oak too, if any it must be used intelligently (same arguments could apply to sauvignon).

Try a good Ligurian vermentino or pigato (same grape despite arguments to the contrary) from Bruna (le Russeghine 2003 is great right now, the top flight U Baccan is still a little closed) or from Maria Donata Bianchi.

There is definitely a potential for Provence to make great vermentino, or rolle as it is called here, but so far nobody is trying hard.

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