Nice crew of 8 met last night at Mr. Tang's in Chinatown for some good food and wine. Mr. Tang's did an excellent job- pepper/black bean scallops, crunchy salted whole shrimp, duck, beef with asparagus and greens, flounder with straw mushrooms, green beans and onions, and some excellent soft-shell crabs. Thanks to John "Pappadoc" Dawson for organized.
NV Egly-Ouriet Champagne Sweet apples and just a hint of citrus, some yeast and biscuit but dominated by the fruit. I believe this was labeled Brut, but the dosage leaves this tasting off-dry. Good. B/B+
2002 Johan Donabaum Offenberg Riesling Smaragd (Wachau) (from winemonger.com) Intensely minerally. Definitely more about the earth than the fruit. Someone opines that it's so mineral-driven that it's hard to peg as Riesling. Maybe so, but I like a lot. B+/A-2001 von Simmeren Erbacher Marcobrunn Kabinett (Rheingau) Spatlesen weight. Rather powerful, with peach and apricot fruit. More spicy than minerally. Quite good. B+
2003 JJ Christoffel Erdener Treppchen Kabinett Not really flabby like some '03s, good fruit flavors, but still a little ponderous. Other liked better than I. B-1987 de Fieuzal blanc (I didn't look to see if the '87 was still Graves, or whether they had started using Pessac-Leognan) Melon fruit with a heavy overlay of hay (hey, does grassy SB become hay-ey SB with age?) and vanilla-y oak. Others comment on good acidity, but it seems a tad flabby to me. I think I just don't get Bordeaux Blanc - I can count on one hand ones that wowwed me (and unfortunately those were mostly Haut-Brion Blanc and its ilk I'll never be able to afford). I'm in the minority on this one. B-
2002 WH Smith "Maritime" Pinot Noir Blackberries, black plums and lots of chocolate. Oaky steroid PN. I take a small pour, decide I need more to really judge, ask Kevin to pass the Syrah- he hands me this Pinot without a second glance. Obviously well-made, obviously not made well for my tastes. C+2002 Joel Talau St. Nicholas de Bourgueil Ding ding ding. This is more like it. Firm structure, moderate ripe tannins and good acidity. Fresh berries and black plums and some just-tilled soil. Needs time, but I like now. B+/A-
2001 Carillon "Les Refferts" Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Honey, butter, and pears. Oaky but getting integrated. B/B+1987 Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon Surprisingly young. Good clean lively cassis fruit , ripe mostly resolved tannins, some earth and forest floor. Medium-bodied and attractive. B+
2001 Carillon "Les Refferts" Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Second bottle. A bit more forward than other, but also far more mineral-driven. Seems zippier,too. I like both, but prefer this. A-2002 Cour-Cheverny "Cuvee Renaissance" (producer?) Light and brisk, like a slender Chenin almost. Great acidity and good finish. Citrus and white nectarine fruit, plus some wool and wax aromas. A little nutty note on the finish as well as some chalk. B+/A-
1990 Baumard Coteaux du Layon Sticky capsule had me worried. I had 4 or 5 of these, this is last, all but one of previous ones were fine.But that was the one that showed seepage, like this one. Uh oh, this is awful dark. Well, there is some oxidation. But underneath there's some interesting stuff, burnt apple and caramel aromas along with some honeyed Chenin fruit. Better than I feared as it was opened, worse than a pristine bottle. B1989 Sichel Trockenbeerenauslese (I can't read my notes on the rest of the designation- sauce stain- but I remember first word started with Kirsch, and second with Schwarz - is it possible this might actually be black cherry TBA? Yes, I believe so) Strange wine. Is that botryitis back there? Hell, I don't know, sweet red wines just perplex me. Others want to put it and the Kracher) on ice cream. I think this should be put by the teaspoon in a flute, which should then be filled up with Cerdon de Bugey. But as is, C
1999 Kracher # 8 Welschriesling Trockenbeerenauslese Citrus blossom and honey on the nose. Candied apricot and honey on the palate. I admire the quality of the Krachers, but often I wish it had more acidic zip, and that's the case here. B/B+2001 de Myrat Now this has plenty of acidity, and nice apricot and pineapple fruit to boot. Good long finish, plenty of botrytis notes. A-/B+
Nice night- good to see some old friends and make new ones.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency