TN: wines with the (non-prodigal) son- '88 St Emilion, etc

Oct 07, 2013 2 Replies

A couple of nights of leftover pork, with slightly different preps to break up monotony. With burritos and crema/salsa, I went pink- A bottle of Guion rose was corked, but the 2012 Arnot Roberts Touriga Nacional rose was not . Cherry blossoms, red fruit, a mineral backbone. B+/B



Back to bo ssam, with the 2011 Foillard “Cote de Py” Morgon. Nicely bal anced, fresh red fruits with light smooth tannins, fresh acids,soil notes, good length. B+



Lemon sole en papillote with ginger/scallion/arugula and the 2008 F. Cotat Le Culs de Beaujeau Sancerre. Takes a while to open up, but does so nicely , with vivid acidity under full ripe fruit. Apples and peach, ginger and fl int, long and complex. A-



A recent gift of the 2000 Rocher Corbin (Montagne-St. Emilion) still was ha nging on to a bit of plummy fruit, but no structure left, a bit formless on the palate. With a bit of time some ashtray notes, send this to the vinega r crock. C+



Despite the Indian summer, I made spaghetti with Italian sausage in tomato sauce, with the 2012 Arianna Occhipinti SP68. Fresh berries, herby, with ve ry good length for a rather lighter styled wine. Quite enjoyable, and hold s well over 2 days. B+



Saturday I went to pick up Dave and Mary Kate at JFK, by time I was back ju st had some gyosa, okra, and leftover wine. Sunday Betsy’s sister and her family came over for a family dinner to welcome Dave back, we started with smoked duck breast canapes, crudite, and caprese, main course was miso-gla zed salmon with a Chinese broccoli/sprout/rice noodle dish.


2004 Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc de Blancs Champagne Lime and Granny smith fruit, not very bready, good crispness, a tad sweet o n finish. B


2011 Schafer-Frohlich Bockenaur Riesling Kabinett Full for kab, this seems to have closed up a bit, but still good fruit, sla tey minerals, good acids pulsing underneath. B+/B


2009 Drouhin Morgon This was rather muted at first, some fruit opened up, but this remained som eone stiff and ungiving. Closed? Maybe, but for now C+


1988 Ch. Canon As a belated birthday celebration for David. Not what I really expected for an ‘88, no apparent tannin, more elegant than burly, fully mature, black and red currant fruit with leather and cigarbox. Ready, willing, able. B+



We also sampled some leftover dessert wine that had been opened (but I forg ot to post on) Sunday, the NV Annapolis “White Wedding” wine, a blend f rom Nova Scotia (brought back by friends who just bought a house there). 65 % Reliant (new one for me), rest PG and NY Muscat (?). Peaches/canned peach es, medium sweet, allspice. Interesting flavor profile, could use a bit mor e zip. B-/C+



Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a pa rty where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivi ty, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.


That's nice to hear, Dale. I've got some headed my way right now, from Dan Posner.

What an absolutely delicious sounding menu, Dale. How does the miso glaze do with salmon? I've only ever had it with "black cod" (sable).

Ook! I've got some of this, too, purchased on the basis of John Gilman's enthusiasm for it. Hopefully, like many '09s, it just needs more time to come into its own.

Thanks for the notes! Mark Lipton

Yes, it's pretty much the same as the black cod made famous at Nobu. This r ecipe (NYT) said any fatty fish filet- salmon, trout, mahi-mahi, black cod, artic char. Sable (fresh) is hard to find here, so I was planning on arti c char, but market was out. Trout looked great, but harder to serve for big ger group (not fileted), so went with salmon. I thought quite tasty (though 3 lbs of filet tough to evenly glaze with our broiler, I needed a salamand er) Usually I'd grill but weather was iffy.

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Looking back, I really liked this on first release, pretty sure just in an awkward state.

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