WTN: 2005 Loires, a red and a white

Apr 12, 2007 4 Replies

With duck in red wine, sesame noodles, and beans, the 2005 Domaine de la Chanteleuserie Bourgueil Cuvée Vieilles Vignes. I bought this based on positive notes re the producer from Gilman and just because Chambers Street carried it (in the Loire the latter holds great weight to me). Initially I found it simple and grapey. Then with dinner I couldn't make any judgements- Betsy had used a variant on the sesame noodle recipe in the NYT mag, using Szechuan peppercorns. Their tingly/numbing qualities made it hard to taste accurately , but I revisited the Bourgueil later that evening and again with burgers Wednesday. It had definitely shed the grapiness and developed deeper black cherry fruit, with accents of herbs and tobacco. Good ripeness and balanced acidity, but lacking the minerality and precision I've found in my favorite



2005 red Loires. Happy to drink it, but not especially looking for more. B

While paying bills and crunching numbers for colleges, a couple glasses of the 2005 Pinon "Cuvée Tradition" Vouvray. Moderately sweet, good firm acids, clean chalky finish. Apple and tangerine fruit, tasty and fun. Excellent value at $15ish. B+



Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.



Darn and I took a chomp at that one myself. My wine guy swears it tastes like heaven, and he is usually right, but I had a bottle of the regular stuff (red label not gold) and was unimpressed as well, there are so many better Loire wines out there. So I guess I open the vieille vignes on a less important meal than I might have.

Well, judge it with open mind. Someone at CSW thought it was a very good wine, it just didn't resonate with me. I look forward to seeing what you think.

I read that same recipe with great relish, Dale: the version I consumed repeatedly at Szechuan West (106th and B'way) back in the '80s was a culinary epiphany. Only recently did I learn that the "authentic" version includes Sichuan peppercorns, which definitely changes the character of the dish (and, now, thanks to Max H. I know that Ma Bo Dofu is properly made with copious amounts of Sichuan peppercorns). I think that I'll give the Bourgueil a pass, though.

Thanks for the notes. Has the most recent incarnation of the Pinon petillant yet appeared in our market?

Mark Lipton

I think so, but I liked the last version enough to stock up, so haven't tried yet

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