TN: Barolo and Barbaresco at Kittle House

Jacques organized a Nebbiolo themed dinner (well, actually Barbaresco and Barolo, he banned my old Spannas) at Crabtree's Kittle House last night. So I go to 2 Piedmont themed events this year, and they happen to be 3 days apart. :) A nice group of 8 got together, a nice mix for me of old friends and new. The staff at the Kittle House did an excellent job throughout night of wine service, the chef made a delicious tasting menu for us, and a good time was had by all.

Flight 1 (king salmon and mustard greens)

1971 Ceretto "Montefico" Barbaresco Really a lovely bottle, ripe red cherry, very floral, some earth, a little citrus zest. Mature but not fading. A-

1974 Produttori del Barbaresco "Moccagatta" Barbaresco A little concern was expressed when this was first poured, but with 10 minutes of air it showed well, and was one of my top wines of the evening. Some barnyard brett notes, but well within my tolerance level. Earth, red fruit, a hint of pipe tobacco. A-/B+

1978 Pio Cesare Barolo Riserva I didn't write it down, but think there was a dead bottle of 71 Pio Cesare, and this was the backup. Bigger, a bit lifted, rounder than flightmates. Just a touch of pruniness to the fruit. Solid fully mature Barolo (I think favorite of those who like bigger). B+/B

Flight 2 (great duck breast, with farro, black radishes, cherry sauce)

1990 Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia Soprana Really ripe, a bit of VA, some tannins. Some disagreement over this one, as some felt it needed 10 years, and I thought it might have just crested the hump. We're to meet in 10 years to decide. B/B-

1979 Cappellano Barolo This edged the '71 Ceretto for my WOTN vote. Pretty red fruit, but actually dominated by notes of earth, herb, and orange zest. Elegant, long, fine. Like 79s from Bordeaux and Burgundy, this seems to have aged on acids more than tannins, but there's fine balance in any case. A re-sip at night's end was going strong. A-

1982 Ceretto "Bricco Rocche Brunate" Barolo I wasn't loving this at first pour, but it really built up steam in glass. I actually didn't write any notes on this, but quite liked. B+/ A-

Flight 3 (Venison with coriander, with butternut squash puree, Brussels sprouts, and "huckleberry port jus" )

1998 Giacosa Falletto Barbaresco Lush, some tannins, just seems to be getting into drinking window. B+/ B

1998 Giacosa Barbaresco (normale) I'm getting just a hint of brett on this, but for Jacques this is undrinkable. I just assume this is differing sensitivities to different strains of brett. Good acids, spice, red fruit. B/B+

1999 Giacosa "Santo Stefano" Barbaresco Tightest wine, initially just hints of black cherry and a little VA, lots of tannins. Needs time, lots of potential. B+?

Flight 4 (short ribs with polenta and spinach)

1999 Bussia Soprana Barolo I was a little puzzled by this bottle, as to me Bussia Soprana is an Aldo Conterno wine, this seemed to be producer name. Mid framed, a bit oaky, vanilla over red berries. B/B-

1996 Giuseppe Mascarello "Bricco" Barolo A little wierd funk when first poured, but it blows out. What is left is tough and monolithic, but underneath lurks what I think is a very very good wine. A B- for drinking now, but A- for potential.

1997 Sandrone "Cannubi" Barolo Ripe, low acid, ripe, low acid. Some really loved, I felt it drank ok, but didn't offer much potential, I just prefer some zip. B/B-

Quite a fun night. Wines showed well overall - even my least favorites were quite drinkable. Food was very good, company better. Some interesting different takes on the wines, and how different preferences are just as valid. Thanks to Jacques for organizing, and to everyone for their generosity.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

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DaleW
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