Just back from a beer holiday in Prague.
There are still some great old-fashioned pubs in the town centre, but these are getting harder to find. Posh cocktail bars with Coldplay blasting out of the speakers are springing up all over to cater for the yoof market.
However, I stayed a few metro stops out, in Holosevic where there are plenty of basic local bars. I quickly got addicted to Gambrinus (18kc) and Kosel dark (18kc, a superb drink) with the odd Pilsener Urquell (25 kr) for variety.
Highlights
--------------- U Cerného Vola, Loretánske Námestí -- Kosel -- superb beer hall; instead of turning right for the castle, keep on up the steps then up the hill to the next square. Rudolfina, Krížovnická -- Urquell -- excellent beer and service; good location. U Zlatého, Tygra -- Urquell -- tourist trap, but still a good pint U Vejvodu, Perlova -- Urquell -- a real suprise; good value considering the location.
U Houbare, Holosevic (opposite National Gallery) -- Gambrinus/ Kosel/Urquell -- excellent locals pub; there are a few other good boozers nearby.
Vinohrady/TV Tower area -- start at Jirihiro z Pozebrahd and head N, NW or W. Plenty of good value local pubs.
Branik pivnice, Vodockova -- Branik -- a gem in the town centre. Staropramen brewery, Andel -- various local pubs nearby serving good Staropramen. Unknown Gambrinus pivnice, Ladni metro -- surrounded by Soviet-era concrete high rise flats, in the UK this would be a well dodgy estate pub. But it proved to be a friendly traditional Czech beer hall/restaurant serving excellent cheap Gambrinus.
Lowlights
------------- U Glaubicu, Malostranské Namestí -- Urquell -- diabolical service, rip-off joint tried a schnapps scam. U Pinkasu, Jungmannovo Namesti -- couldn't find it. U Fleku -- too expensive and touristy, I looked at the price list outside and decided not to bother going in. Pivnice Radegast, Templova -- now closed down Novomestsky Pivovar, Vodickova -- poor service, tourist trap, waiter tried to short-change me.
Conclusions
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- Attempts at rip-offs/"service charges" in the town centre left a sour taste in my mouth.
- A pub full of Czech locals is usually a good sign.
- There are many old-fashioned good value czech pubs once you get out of the town centre.
Bruce