Hello,
I escaped from the West Mids by train yesterday on the London Midland Great Escape ticket (£10 for unlimited one-day travel on all of their network any day between Christmas and New Year), and thought I'd pass on my findings. I'd welcome any other suggestions for good beer near the Southern end of the WCML, as I'd like to do something similar again.
London
11.45 - 12.10 Euston Flyer, Euston Road - This is a typical main-road drinking bar, a bit like a small JDW (but not the price!). It's the only pub on my trip that I've visited before, I popped in while waiting for Mabel's to open and found it full at 11.45, with many seemingly there for the football on the TV. Fuller's Jack Frost, 4.5%ABV, £3.55 pt. CAMRA NBSS Score 3. The flat beer was as usual served much too cold, but still a pleasant, fruity Winter ale.
12.10 - 12.30 Mabel's Tavern, Mabledon Place - About 1-minute walk from the Flyer, and cosier. Surprisingly, it was almost empty. Shepherd Neame Kent's Best, 4.1% ABV, £3.10 pt. CAMRA NBSS Score 3. My first pint of Kent's Best, which was a nice traditional bitter, again served a little cold.
St. Albans
I don't know what it is about St. Albans that feels a bit 'too perfect', but I found, as with my last visit, that the town, many of the pubs, and even a few of the people seemed a bit artificial - I felt a bit like I'd wondered onto the set of a British version of the Truman Show. Is it because much of it is a Conservation Zone? Or are all the home-counties like this?
14.05 - 14.30 Six Bells, St. Michael's Street - A pleasant 20-minute walk from Abbey station through Verulamium Park, past the Roman ruins into this olde-worlde pub with low beams and a real fire. Oakham JHB, 3.8%ABV, £2.70 pt. CAMRA NBSS Score 3.5. The JHB slipped down as easy as usual, and was in good condition. Served in lined oversized pint glasses.
14.40 - 15.05 Farriers Arms, Lower Dagnall Street - Taking a short diversion from the on-street route back into the town centre, I visited my first McMullens pub. It has a less corporate feel to the London pubs (which was good). McMullens Cask, 3.8%ABV, £2.80 pt. CAMRA NBSS Score 3.5. A modern style session bitter, and my favourite so far.
Bedford
I got totally lost from the station due to my Google map missing bits when I printed it off (grrr!), combined with the drizzle and very dark streets near the station. I eventually found the pub after several helpful (and a couple of unhelpful) directions from Bedford's townsfolk.
18.00 - 19.00 Wellington, Wellington Street - It's a lovely back- street Banks & Taylor pub with an L-shaped bar and over a dozen beers, plus a couple of dozen Belgian and World beers including Poperings Hommel Bier (one of my favourites). This was my favourite pub of the day, by far. It's a shame my impression of B & T beer had been sullied by a few awful pints in JDW pubs. B & T Shefford Bitter, 3.8% ABV, £2.60 pt, CAMRA NBSS Score 4.5. Another modern-style session beer, served just about perfectly. B & T Golden Fox, 4.1%ABV, £2.70 pt, CAMRA NBSS Score 4. Nice golden beer, again in almost perfect condition.
The friendly staff and customers directed me back to the station and I had some very nice chips from Tasty Tucks Fish Bar on Tavistock St.
Northampton
21.15 - 22.00 Malt Shovel, Bridge Street - A brisk 10-minute walk from the station brings you to this pub, ominously opposite the entrance to the Carlsberg brewery. I knew I didn't need to worry, though, because although it does indeed sell the yellow p*ss from over the road, it's the 'Tap House' for the Great Oakley brewery, some 20 miles away. I personally didn't much like the inside of the pub, which has been gutted and done out in pine and felt to me like the inside of a giant shed. It's popular enough, though being full at 9pm on Sat night, despite being well off the drinking circuit. Great Oakley Gobble, 4.5%ABV, £2.70, CAMRA NBSS Score 4. Hoppy and strong - just how I like my beer. Great Oakley Harpers, 4.2%ABV, £2.50 pt, CAMRA NBSS Score 4. Darker and sweeter than the Gobble and, as with the Gobble, in excellent condition.
I got back into Birmingham just in time to get my last bus home. All trains ran to time and were on the whole clean and comfortable. I really hope LM do the same deal more often as many of the trains were almost empty.
Will.