Cain's - lager touts. (long)

Jan 27, 2005 3 Replies

Spotted an interesting piece on

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(a couple of odd things; the brewer's name is Dave Nijs (not Nigs) & Maris Otter is barley not hops, but q good otherwise). The bit near the end about Cain's attmpts to join the IFBB (Independent Family Brewers of Britain IIRC) would be funny if it didn't stink so badly - the new Cain's owners have shown a huge commitment of time, money & relocating their business (& families AFAIK) to Liverpool, but IFBB still says 'well you might be asset-strippers; which of course no family brewer could ever have been accused of?)



I emailed Cain's CAMRA brewery liason officer recently (an occasional poster to this NG) who assured me that Cain's are only launching the cask version of their lager at next month's Liverpool BeerFest, despite several press mentions to the contrary (i.e. that they were launching the keg version; even tho the beer has been in Cain's pubs since last summer IIRC - not bad, but not stunning either; much better than most UK lagers, but not enough of the hop in bitterness or aromatics) cheers, MikeMcG. _________________________________________________________________________



Willing and able Published 26-Jan-2005



Turning Cains around is no short-term project for its dynamic directors



- they are in it for the long haul, as they explain to Andrew Catchpole.



Liverpudlian pride runs deep. It's a place where the locals make it their business to know who is doing what in their city. So it came as little surprise that my cab driver had an opinion on the Dusanj brothers as we approached the Victorian edifice of Cains in Liverpool's infamous suburb of Toxteth.



"They'd be the Asian lads who took over the brewery," he nodded. "They kept people in work and seem to be doing a good job."



It's not a bad testimony coming from a Scouse cabbie. After all, Ajmail and Sudarghara Dusanj are two rank outsiders who waltzed into town a couple of years ago and bought Liverpool's only working brewery for £7.5m.



Buying the brewery



With no experience of brewing, no local knowledge and a background in packaging and wholesale, eyebrows were certainly raised. Undeterred, the Dusanj brothers set about revamping the business, rapidly transforming the £2m a year loss-making business into a profitable operation which doubled its turnover to £30m in 2004. And this turnaround only marks the beginning of their ambitious plans.



The brothers aim to develop Cains into a high profile national brand and have also launched the first ever all British premium lager. They intend to grow this into a top four UK pint.



"We picked up on the sale of Cains in The Times on New Year's Day



2002," says Sudarghara. The paper mentioned that Cains' owner, Danish Brewing Group, had put out a statement to its shareholders in Denmark saying the brewery was to be sold.

"Buying Cains was certainly a challenge, a quantum leap, but we discussed it and thought 'yes, why not, we can do this'," remembers Ajmail. "We were the first to ring and make an appointment when the sale was officially offered that January."



After sealing the deal, the Dusanj brothers wasted little time in making changes at the ailing brewery. David Nigs, an ex-Banks's brewer, was drafted in as head brewer, along with brewers David Edwards and David Moore, respectively from SA Brains in Cardiff and Boddingtons in Manchester.



They set about upping the quality of the hops and barley in the brews, began a subtle redesign of the distinctive logo and livery both of the pump clips and on the range of bottled beers, and began exploiting the



150-year-old regional heritage of Cains with the strapline "Liverpool in a pint". Next came the ambitious part of their project.

"We asked why all the British regional brewers take so much pride in their beers but then undercut themselves by offering foreign lagers brewed under licence alongside the ales in their pubs?" says Sudarghara. "So we decided there was a fantastic opportunity to make a premium quality British lager."



The result is a hoppy, full-flavoured lager, brewed with English Maris Otter hops and Norfolk barley and matured (lagered) for three months. The bottled version was launched in summer 2004 with the roll-out of the keg version planned to coincide with the CAMRA Beer Festival in Liverpool this February.



All of this has predictably generated carping about opportunism from rivals, especially among the more traditional quarters of the trade. But the Dusanj brothers make no bones about being businessmen first and foremost.



As Ajmail says: "In the 1960s, when the Beatles were around, lager accounted for about one per cent of the market. By 2007 the indications are it will be 75 per cent of the British beer market." The brothers drink very little alcohol so it is unlikely that the purchase of Cains and the launch of the lager are purely for the love of beer.



In the beginning



Ajmail (38) and Sudarghara (39) began their working life in the family fish and chip shop in Chatham, Kent. From there they built up their budding business empire, first expanding the chip shop business, then later moving into the drinks packaging and wholesale business which found them relocating to the Midlands. Now they have enthusiastically adopted Liverpool as their new home town.



The acquisition of Cains was not as off-the-wall as it at first might seem. The 10-acre brewery site in Toxteth is close to the centre of this fast regenerating city. With news that Liverpool has won the title European Capital of Culture in 2008, the brewery looks to be an increasingly shrewd investment.



The purchase of Cains also provided ample space for the relocation of the Dusanj brothers' packaging and canning business - they have big contracts with many of the large and medium-sized brewers up and down the country. The mesmerisingly convoluted canning production line in the heart of the brewery is the engine room of their business. However, the Dusanj brothers are at pains to stress their plans for the brewing side of Cains are long term.



"With the packaging and wholesale businesses we were always totally reliant on the contracts of others," says Sudarghara. "Now we have the opportunity to build the Cains brand and have something recognisable that is our own."



Signs of this commitment include the rotating range of seasonal beers, such as the six per cent ABV Cains Victorian Ale out this February, which David Nigs has been encouraged to brew. There has also been growing success in selling Cains beers into top-end local venues. The famous Philharmonic pub and the hip new Hope Street boutique hotel are among those serving Cains bitter and lager on draught, plus 50 Mitchells & Butlers outlets in the North West.



Cains also has 11 of its own pubs in Liverpool and, as finances allow, is hoping to add up to 100 further sites in Merseyside and the North West.



However, the bulk of Cains business remains in the bottled off-sales sector and both Dusanj brothers recognise they have a long way to go in building a nationally recognised brand in the pub trade. And to achieve recognition among their regional brewing peers.



Gaining recognition



Ajmail smiles as he remembers their attempt to join the Independent Family Brewers of Britain (IFBB).



"They said 'you have to be family-owned'. We are. They said 'you have to be independent'. We are. They said 'you have to be a member of the British Beer & Pub Association'. We are. They said 'you have to brew cask ales'. We do. And they still wouldn't let us join," says Ajmail. "They went away and scratched their heads and then Anthony Fuller sent us a letter saying we had to be in the brewing business for at least 10 years."



I, for one, would give good odds that the Dusanj brothers will be knocking on the IFBB's door again early in 2012.



"Building Cains as a brand will take time because we will always keep it a family business - we couldn't bear being answerable to shareholders," says Sudarghara. "And because it is our money we have to make it work." Quantum Business Media _________________________________________________________________________



This *is* The Publican, the house journal of the "I am the man, the very fat man, that waters the workers' beer" brigade. The 'journalist' probably just made a few mistakes copying the Cains press release.

I don't like the whiff of racism either, but personally I think Cains have yet to establish their credentials as a genuine craft brewer. Their cask beers are good, but as The Cynical Alcopop Flogging Bastard (sorry, 'Publican') admits, the bulk of their business is still making cheap supermarket lager, and their current focus seems to be on pushing this new Stella bashing lager. We'll have to see what happens.

Best regards, Paul

-- Paul Sherwin Consulting

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IMO Cain's have proved themselves as a genuine craft brewer, and committed cask ale brewer - their ordinary bitter when kept well & fresh is an old-style-looking brown bitter, but unlike many of them it comes with a lovely fruity flowery hop note that keeps you coming back for more. The mild when fresh is absolutely superb & deserved of its international award a few years back (it sadly is harder to find than the bitter, & even harder to find really fresh).

But cask/craft beer just isn't all Cain's do, and at present the that aspect alone would almost certainly not support the business as a whole

- I think they're wisely trying to build quality brands under their own banner while keeping the business going (i.e. the lauter-tuns full & canning line canning) by brewing/packaging less good beers for those happy to buy it. Not ideal, perhaps, to us as cask fans, but IMO an understandable compromise given the size of the brewery, packaging line, site & workforce. cheers MikeMcG

Indeed. I'd rather see a craft brewer diversify into popularist crap to increase revenues rather than attempt to be exclusively traditional and go to the wall.

I might even have liked to see Higsons survive, but that's another story...

Brian

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